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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Favela T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slumlord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Justin Serpico
Page Views: 263 total · 5/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Oct 7, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Technically this is a V1 version of Son of Circuitous Shit.

P1: Begin as for Son of Circuitous Shit. Climb up the chimney to where it begins to be choked with trees. Exit right onto the face using the hand size horizontal crack (filled with snake skins). Zig zag your way up the face to the next horizontal crack (brown tricam protects well). Exit this crack and go right around the arĂȘte onto the upper slabs awkwardly straddling the arete using holds on both sides. Friction up past a horizontal covered by a flake and mantle up to the ridge. Walk the flat rock to an appropriate belay (trees or gear anchors).

Location

Same as Son of Circuitous Shit. 35ft uphill of the right end of the low roof system or 10ft left of the wide crack that is the start of Circuitous Shit.

Protection

A mix of gear will protect this climb well. Sizes from blue CCH Alien to a #2 Camalot with an emphasis on finger size gear. Tricams up to brown were helpful. I found protecting the second on this variation difficult. I believe the other routes traverse further right on the low angle slabs. Exiting directly up to the ridge leaves ground fall potential once the final cam is removed, although the leader is well protected.

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