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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 565 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 7, 2013 with updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the face and outside corner to the large overhang. Climb up the left edge of this a few feet and make long reaches up and right to get past the obstacle and onto the face above the OH.
Climb up the face to a left-leaning, left-facing corner, follow this to a notch meeting a right-rising crack system and take that crack up to a final short traverse to the anchors. The final moves are spicy.

Location

This route begins on the face right of Gunky Route, joins that route to pass the large overhang, then climbs directly up the face to a right-leaning crack system before traversing sharp right to bolt anchors.
Look for a pile of large, fresh-looking boulders lying at the base of the cliff in front of a left-facing corner bordering a small & shallow rock amphitheater.

Protection

Mix of bolts and trad gear, predominantly the former but a few spots are dangerously runout without a trad rack.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
MasterBeta: That's a variation to Hooverville. Things are tightly packed in there. Jun 13, 2017
MasterBeta .  
 
Whats the climb directly to the right of this? I climbed up the slab and broke the roof where those other bolts are (to the right of shantytown), and also climbed up a few feet right of that with gear in the wet crack.. Jun 12, 2017
The nuts on the bolts were all tight today. Jul 30, 2016
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9
The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it). Jul 6, 2015