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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 582 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 7, 2013 with updates from Kevin Heckeler
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb up the face and outside corner to the large overhang. Climb up the left edge of this a few feet and make long reaches up and right to get past the obstacle and onto the face above the OH.
Climb up the face to a left-leaning, left-facing corner, follow this to a notch meeting a right-rising crack system and take that crack up to a final short traverse to the anchors. The final moves are spicy.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route begins on the face right of Gunky Route, joins that route to pass the large overhang, then climbs directly up the face to a right-leaning crack system before traversing sharp right to bolt anchors.
Look for a pile of large, fresh-looking boulders lying at the base of the cliff in front of a left-facing corner bordering a small & shallow rock amphitheater.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Mix of bolts and trad gear, predominantly the former but a few spots are dangerously runout without a trad rack.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9
The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it). Jul 6, 2015
The nuts on the bolts were all tight today. Jul 30, 2016
Forrest .  
 
Whats the climb directly to the right of this? I climbed up the slab and broke the roof where those other bolts are (to the right of shantytown), and also climbed up a few feet right of that with gear in the wet crack.. Jun 12, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
MasterBeta: That's a variation to Hooverville. Things are tightly packed in there. Jun 13, 2017

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