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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: June 1987, Jim Vermeulen, Bill Morris
Page Views: 182 total, 2/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Start at left leaning crack. Work up the crack about 20 feet to a good stance, then straight up to a bulge with 2 cracks running through it. Use the left crack to pull over the bulge (crux), then climb straight up to the anchors (above a large ledge a few feet from the top).

Location

150 feet to the left of the third class ramp, about halfway up the eroded dirt slope. Easiest to follow the main path past the eroded slope, then take second path (right) up the the start of this route. The path below Soweto and Hard Times is in much better condition.

Protection

Bolts at top for anchor. Can walkoff, eventually exiting using the third class ramp.

Can be top roped

Access to the bolts on top is easy. If you top rope, please build an anchor with webbing - do not top rope through the bolted anchor!

Photos

Andrew Alexander
Ithaca, New York
Andrew Alexander   Ithaca, New York
There's a nice new belay ledge on the bottom of this route as of today, built by a group from Cornell. Sep 24, 2017
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Thanks Mike. :) Apr 2, 2013
Per the guidebook, and what I saw there, you tackle the crux bulge via the LEFT of the pair of cracks. Oct 29, 2012