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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 2007, The Shanty Team
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Johan on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

High-quality flake/crack climbing that would likely be held in high regard if it only were longer. For the grade it requires a little thought (though that might just be the lack of chalk to follow) but it never gets too strenuous, so there's plenty of time to figure it out. After the bolts, follow the crack system to the top.

Location

Starts at the right-most bolt line on the left side of the high dirt slope. It's the highest route on the slope, just left of the gully with the big chockstone.

Protection

Three quick bolts and then a mix of gear to 2". Quick-clip anchor.

Photos

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The crux moves are quite unlike most Shanty routes - more balancey and incremental. Make sure you eyeball the face (e.g. from LGD) and know where the anchor is, or else you might get suckered into trending left up high, over toward the anchor for Hard Times, since that comes into view before the L&D anchor.

Gear - small wires helpful. Jun 30, 2016
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
agreed is a fun route. its long if u figure in where my belayer stood but there was a lot of easy slab leading to the actual climb as i recall. Sep 7, 2012