Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: May 1988, Stuart Williams, Eric Dahn, Jim Vermeulen
Page Views: 839 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Climb a crack onto the slab, then left to a birch. Take the upper crack and another diagonal crack up and right to the arete. Gain another crack to traverse right (crux) and to the top.

Location

Start 15 feet downhill from Bo Peep and River View, or 20 feet uphill/left from Circuitous Shit.

Protection

Gear needed for anchor.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Stiff lead. Three of us climbing agreed it's maybe 5.8 Jul 20, 2011
Paul Deagle
Geneseo, NY
Paul Deagle   Geneseo, NY
Climbed it this weekend. The traverse is stiff but I think that is only because of the nonexistence feet. I found a little chip out to the right which helps. 5.7 or maybe + would be my guess. The slab is super easy so probably about right. Aug 6, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.8-
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.8-
tend to agree with heckeler. the first time doing the crux it feels pretty eightish. Aug 8, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Sadly the jams at the bottom are painful and the slab breaks up the climb in an uninteresting way, but for the bit of good climbing it offers the route is worth doing. At the time it was one of my first 5.7 leads and felt pretty stiff for the grade. Might revisit it to see what I think now. Aug 22, 2012