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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: May 1988, Stuart Williams, Eric Dahn, Jim Vermeulen
Page Views: 744 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb a crack onto the slab, then left to a birch. Take the upper crack and another diagonal crack up and right to the arete. Gain another crack to traverse right (crux) and to the top.

Location

Start 15 feet downhill from Bo Peep and River View, or 20 feet uphill/left from Circuitous Shit.

Protection

Gear needed for anchor.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Sadly the jams at the bottom are painful and the slab breaks up the climb in an uninteresting way, but for the bit of good climbing it offers the route is worth doing. At the time it was one of my first 5.7 leads and felt pretty stiff for the grade. Might revisit it to see what I think now. Aug 22, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.8-
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.8-
tend to agree with heckeler. the first time doing the crux it feels pretty eightish. Aug 8, 2012
Paul Deagle
Geneseo, NY
Paul Deagle   Geneseo, NY
Climbed it this weekend. The traverse is stiff but I think that is only because of the nonexistence feet. I found a little chip out to the right which helps. 5.7 or maybe + would be my guess. The slab is super easy so probably about right. Aug 6, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Stiff lead. Three of us climbing agreed it's maybe 5.8 Jul 20, 2011