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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 125 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bowzer on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

From the "New Routes" section of adirondackrock.com:
The second clip is difficult for short people. Climb straight up the face to a left-rising crack, then straight up to the top of the face. Instead of standing up, hand traverse left on hidden jugs for 10' to a fixed anchor. 25'

Location

On the Squatter Wall, 150' left and uphill from the Sports Arena. It is the right-most of three bolted lines. From adirondackrock.com: 4' right of the 4-trunked maple tree, and 8' left of the right side of the face, at an incut edge 6' up.

Protection

4 draws to anchor.

Photos

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MasterBeta .  
 
I thought the crux was around the third bolt. huge hand rail from the 4th bolt on to the anchor. .10a is a good grade for the route, if not a bit soft. some fun slab moves Jun 12, 2017
Bowzer
Albany, NY
 
Bowzer   Albany, NY
 
A fun, balancy climb with the crux right at the last bolt. Felt stiff for the grade.

FYI, I broke off a nice in-cut hold below the fourth bolt. In my opinion, this makes the crux less straightforward. Aug 21, 2013