Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FFA Tim Trezise, July 2018
Page Views: 57 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tim Trezise on Jul 22, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A small buttress and steep face to the right. The route “C & E” traverses across the center of this cliff section. This climb is similar in quality and character to Shaky Flake but more difficult. The name is Spanish for “poor little thing”.
Climb the short finger arête up through the smaller V Notch (clipping the first bolt) to the moss covered ledge about 18’ up. Climb to the base of the buttress then move right about 7’ to a vertical finger crack starting 8’ up above overhanging rock. (The topo has this incorrectly labeled as an off-width.)  Clip the second bolt then layback the crack that feels more like a positive flake (takes # 0.4 Cam) to the juggy horn at the top. Turn right around the corner, clipping the third bolt, traversing the steep face on the 3”- 4” ledge rising to the right to the left facing corner, then layback the corner flake in the opposite direction. Climb up the right angling inside corner crack or around left on the face to the permanent chain anchors, about 10’ below and 10’ left of the anchor for Ghetto.

Location

Start: About 20’ left from Soup Kitchen, about 10’ left of a maple tree. At the upper most of the short (about 8’ -10’) rock finger arêtes angling down below the base.

Protection

Gear: 1 each of C3s, #0.4 - #2 C4s, small wires, 3 quick draws

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