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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, 6/2005
Page Views: 4,825 total, 75/month
Shared By: SteveZ on Jul 29, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route.

Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained route with no distinct crux.

Location

This route begins up a tight hands crack to the right of Dude's Jam Crack. The top half of the route has a distinct brown streak.

Protection

12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
ebethreegs
  5.13a
ebethreegs  
  5.13a
Perhaps the most pleasurable sport climb I've been on. It was an excellent recommendation from some friends. Thin, technical and sustained. Multiple mini-cruxes with no showstopper crux except the building pump. Do it in the shade. Excellent climb for a first 13a. I was sad when it was over. I want more. Aug 14, 2017
NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
  5.13a
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
  5.13a
Awesome route, closer to 13a than 12d. Amazing vertical climbing, first 6 bolts are a good warm-up. Do it!

I am also curious about the possible chipped hold... the small crimp you match before traversing onto the face at the 6th bolt. I agree it could probably go without it, but it would be much more spicy. Mark, will you shed some light on this? Aug 12, 2017
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Huh, that was dumb of me not to pinpoint it. I think we're talking about the same one, Brett.

Great climb nonetheless. Nov 3, 2015
Brett S.
Colorado
 
Brett S.   Colorado
 
This route looks as good as it climbs. It arcs to the right on an orange splash of granite on very thin, technical face holds. Some of the best face climbing I've ever done. The crux is for sure just linking the intricate and involved moves on the headwall together, there isn't any really single hard stopper move. A classic in my book.
Phil, are you talking about the first crimp on the headwall? The one that you match on to begin the low rightward traverse? Major bummer if this is chipped. Maybe Mr. Rolofson will enlighten us.... Oct 5, 2015
Laura Capps
  5.13a
Laura Capps  
  5.13a
This route is some seriously fun face climbing! The crux sequence is extremely reachy for me but definitely doable even at 5'1". Very technical, but positive holds all the way. Definitely get on this route if you are here. Feb 9, 2015
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Does this route have a chipped hold? It looks like one, feels like one... kinda leads me to think it is one, which detracts one star from the quality.

I wonder if that move would go without it. I think it would, but bump the grade up a letter or two. Apr 21, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.13a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a
For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route with technical climbing. The hard climbing starts with a tricky traverse, followed by a beautiful dike. A thin crux leads to an underclimg. The second crux ascends a discontinuous finger crack. The final redpoint crux is just having enough forearm strength left to make the last thin face moves and reach the top of the juggy flake. One of my favorite vertical face routes. Sep 25, 2012
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall! Jul 29, 2012