Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela
Page Views: 2,525 total · 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


93 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a decent line, probably easier than Jugs Out For The Lads that ascends the 3rd from the right bolted line. There is an interesting crux move around the 2nd bolt which can be done to the right with a foot on the mini-arete or more directly with a mantle of sorts. Continue up fun, ledgy, more moderate terrain.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

Location

This is the 3rd bolted line in from the right.

FWIW, the name of the route suggests it does not start with the 11- start.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.9+
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.9+
There appear to be three distinct starts to this line. The one furthest on the left (in the corner/crack) seems to be the most obvious and is the one I did. But it's possible that the one furthest on the right is the one the grade is based upon. The one on the left felt 5.9+/10- to me. Aug 20, 2012
TSluiter
Holland, VT
TSluiter   Holland, VT
Gabe,
To start in the corner/crack (2 cracks really) is part of the 5.9+ Harmsen's Way. Not really for this route but can be done.
Move a couple feet right to the middle of a slab to start the 5.11- fun little undercling start. You can start this route from here, but it will take the first bolt of the other route, and move a couple feet further to the right and find the diagonal little shelf. This is the start to Dude's Five Nine.

I should add that this is a very well-protected route, ledgy yet fun, great for the newbie leader. I can say this because it was great for me. Jun 7, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.9+
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.9+
Great warm-up for the Dude's Throne, well-protected and very ledgy. Nov 9, 2013
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9
Agree with the other comments - it's ledgy but a good warmup. Sep 24, 2014
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
 
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
 
The crux is definitely tricky. You really just have to go for it. It stumped all the leaders in our group, all of whom lead 10s and up. Fun route though! Definitely worth doing. Aug 26, 2017