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Areas in Golden Gate Canyon SP

Dude's Throne 4 / 26 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Grendel, The 2 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Lazy Squaw Spire 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Little Dude 2 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Mt. Thorodin 17 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Promontory Ridge/The Bear? 10 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Promontory Ridge/The Cub? 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Ralston Roost 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tremont Mountain 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 9,162 ft
GPS: 39.837, -105.425 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

There is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, Tremont Mountain, The Bear, The Cub, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named Lazy Squaw Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure).
State Park; Fee Required. Details

Getting There

From CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt. Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. Lazy Squaw Spire can be accessed from the Lazy Squaw Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road.

An alternative routes in which feel very nice include: via White Ranch Park & Golden on Crawford Gulch Rd; via CO 199 and Gilpin Rd/Gap Rd; and via CO 119 to Hwy 46; via Coal Creek Canyon (CO 72), Twin Spruce (near the Bus Sandwich Shop), then Gap Rd.

Camping

There is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation.

Maximum camping stay in the park is 14 days within any 45-day period.

Hunting

Note, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day.

There is also hunting in the Ralston Creek State Wildlife Area to the southeast of the park.

Pets

Pets must be kept under control and on a leash.

Bolting

Please note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information.

Approaches

Please try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails.

94 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Gate Canyon SP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Grendel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Harmsen's Way
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Any Doodle Do
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Crack
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Way
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Short Dude
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Howdy Doody Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Uplift Mofo Party Plan
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Dihedral
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden Gate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impeachment Day Parade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Open Space Cowboy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Double Dominatrix
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buster Brown
Sport, TR
Mother Grendel Grendel 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
In Harmsen's Way Dude's Throne 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Any Doodle Do Dude's Throne 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Aphrodite Dude's Throne 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dude's Jam Crack Dude's Throne 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Dude's Way Dude's Throne 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Short Dude Dude's Throne 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Howdy Doody Time Dude's Throne 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Uplift Mofo Party Plan Dude's Throne 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dude's Dihedral Dude's Throne 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Golden Gate Dude's Throne 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Impeachment Day Parade Dude's Throne 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Open Space Cowboy Dude's Throne 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Double Dominatrix Dude's Throne 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buster Brown Dude's Throne 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Golden Gate Canyon SP »

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Sharp End Publishing has recently released a new Denver Climbing Guide that includes comprehensive coverage of Clear Creek Canyon, North Table Mountain, Coal Creek Canyon (the legal climbs) and Castlewood Canyon. It has many more routes than even the latest Clear Creek book.

In addition to the concise format, we've incorporated GPS coordinates in the form of scannable QR codes that opens the location in Google maps on your smartphone.

If you own Darren Mabe's Clear Creek Canyon Climbs, you can upgrade to the new book for only $24 (including tax and shipping) by sending in a proof-of-purchsase. See below for more info:
Jan 25, 2017
Any info on bouldering? I see a pic that is called the Dude Boulders. Jun 10, 2015
Can someone please move the map marker for this place? It is at least 30 min out from Golden, but it shows right in the middle of the city. Nice place to climb, has plenty of bolted routes but they are green due to lack of traffic. You should definitely check it out! Aug 25, 2011
David "The Phoenix" Hall
Littleton, CO
David "The Phoenix" Hall   Littleton, CO
Does anyone know any info on bouldering in the area? There are several boulders that can be seen from the visitor's center (looking north) that I checked out the other day and spent half my time cleaning. So it would seem that they've either, never been climbed before (which I find hard to believe), or that they just haven't been climbed in quite a long time. Mar 22, 2011
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
I dig the book, Mark. We've been enjoying Dude's for a while now and are psyched to check out Grendel, which has always looked intriguing from afar. It's nice to know that we still might have a quiet sport place up in the park due to the longer approach. Thanks for the hard work put in by yourself and the other fellas. Sep 23, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Nice, Mark!!!! Sep 23, 2010
I just wrote and published a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" that includes the climbs near Aspen Meadow Campground and Dude's Fishing Hole. These are some of my favorite sport climbs in the state of Colorado. There are about 50 routes. Enjoy from Spring to Fall. Lots of good overhanging routes for a pump. This guide is also for North Table Mountain with the four newly developed quarry walls. Sep 23, 2010
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Yes, it's in the Falcon Guide Classic Climbs Lyons Area guide book by Peter Hubbel. Jul 4, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Without my guidebooks, I recall this being listed in Hubbel's Colorado Crags & ?a smaller guidebook by Hubbel...perhaps the Lyon's guide? Beyond that, I can't recall seeing other published materials. Jul 23, 2006
If anyone has more beta regarding the crags not listed here, please let me know. Is there a guidebook containing any info? I am interested in easy/moderate lines, feel free to email me if you have any suggestions. Jul 23, 2006
Have lived in sight of Golden Gate State Park for 40 years. It is called Mt. Thorodin, not Thoridin. The name is a combination of Thor and Odin. I therefore think it much more fitting for climbers to call the granite crag system: Ragnarok Ridge rather than the awful "Reverend Ridge", the name given by the State. It also fits with the crags: there is a formation that looks exactly like "Odin's Good Eye" (near the center, below the upper formations), another I call Odin's Rib Cage (the furthest North), "The Rainbow Bridge" (the southernmost), and Odin's Throne (the 2nd crag with "Misty" et al.) I hope others agree with my designations. Thanks: I'll be up there this summer doing a few (easy) new routes. There are lots of them still left. May 14, 2004

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