Elevation: 9,162 ft
GPS: 39.837, -105.425 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 193,135 total · 868/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

There is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, Tremont Mountain, The Bear, The Cub, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named Lazy Squaw Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure).

Getting There

From CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt. Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. Lazy Squaw Spire can be accessed from the Lazy Squaw Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road.

An alternative routes in which feel very nice include: via White Ranch Park & Golden on Crawford Gulch Rd; via CO 199 and Gilpin Rd/Gap Rd; and via CO 119 to Hwy 46; via Coal Creek Canyon (CO 72), Twin Spruce (near the Bus Sandwich Shop), then Gap Rd.

Camping

There is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation.

Maximum camping stay in the park is 14 days within any 45-day period.

Hunting

Note, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day.

There is also hunting in the Ralston Creek State Wildlife Area to the southeast of the park.

Pets

Pets must be kept under control and on a leash.

Bolting

Please note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information.

Approaches

Please try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails.

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Gate Canyon SP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Mother Grendel
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 143
Jugs Out For The Lads
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 102
In Harmsen's Way
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 132
Any Doodle Do
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 123
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Dude's Jam Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 59
Short Dude
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 167
Howdy Doody Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 98
Uplift Mofo Party Plan
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 68
Dude's Dihedral
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 45
Golden Gate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 72
Impeachment Day Parade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 116
Open Space Cowboy
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 52
Double Dominatrix
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 70
Buster Brown
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mother Grendel Grendel
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jugs Out For The Lads Dude's Throne
 143
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
In Harmsen's Way Dude's Throne
 102
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Any Doodle Do Dude's Throne
 132
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Aphrodite Dude's Throne
 123
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dude's Jam Crack Dude's Throne
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Short Dude Dude's Throne
 59
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Howdy Doody Time Dude's Throne
 167
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Uplift Mofo Party Plan Dude's Throne
 98
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dude's Dihedral Dude's Throne
 68
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Golden Gate Dude's Throne
 45
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Impeachment Day Parade Dude's Throne
 72
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Open Space Cowboy Dude's Throne
 116
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Double Dominatrix Dude's Throne
 52
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buster Brown Dude's Throne
 70
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Golden Gate Canyon SP »

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