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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson on October 17, 2004
Page Views: 654 total, 17/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Oct 17, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

Start 15 feet right of "Golden Gate". Climb a vertical face up a short arĂȘte past 2 bolts to a roof. Step left & clip the 3rd bolt under the roof's lip. Pull over the roof (.12a) along a short, left-facing corner past the 4th bolt. Take a good rest above the roof on a 1" wide foothold. Make a blind reach over a small roof to clip the 6th bolt that protect the crux. Traverse right around the roof to a sharp sidepull. Reach poor crimpers, & dyno to an undercling. A strange move off the undercling reaches a sloping shelf. A final hard section, past the 8th bolt gains jug. Stroll to the anchor.

Long slings are recommended on the first 2 bolts to reduce rope drag. I clip the 2nd bolt with a short quickdraw & a long sling on the same biner into the bolt hanger. Once I've clipped 3rd bolt, I reach down and unclip from the short quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. A long draw is nice on the 7th bolt, because clipping off the undercling is dicey. This route has a wild crux sequence.

Location

It is located on the left side of the south face 15 feet right of "Golden Gate".

Protection

9 bolts and 2 rings anchor.

Photos

Bobbi Bensman
  5.12d
Bobbi Bensman  
  5.12d
Another fantastic Mark Rolo route. I did this yesterday and fell in love with it. Thuggy, techy, with a red point crux up near the 7th bolt. Wear your magic stickiest rubber shoes! Apr 6, 2015