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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson, 9/21/2003
Page Views: 4,980 total · 57/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


107 Opinions

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State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Bring your full bag of tricks for this one; success will demand a bit of route finding, power, and finesse. The movement and exposed positions are memorable to say the least.

Climb easy rock onto a ledge above the belay. From the ledge, the route climbs up and left on beautiful gold rock, traverses right into a corner, and continues up onto the arete and face above.

Say kids, what time is it?

It's Howdy Doody Time!

It's Howdy Doody Time.
It's Howdy Doody Time.
Bob Smith and Howdy Do
Say Howdy Do to you.
Let's give a rousing cheer,
Cause Howdy Doody's here,
It's time to start the show,
So kids let's go!

Location

Near the center of the South face, left of Open Space Cowboy, belay near a convenient boulder seat.

Protection

11 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

Philip DeFraties
Golden, CO
Philip DeFraties   Golden, CO
Ok here's the thing, Michalm, the presence of bolts doesn't mandate use of said bolts, you can do whatever you want! You could even free solo it, and honestly your opinion, and that of other die hard trad climbers that spew their righteous beliefs on every climber within earshot, is based entirely in elitism. You believe that in order to earn a climb a person must expose themselves to relatively more danger than a lead fall on bolts. Well based on that mindset, why don't you sack up and free solo everything??? Here's another opinion that may chide you, everything could and might as well be bolted. I know that stings, but here's a bit more, that's a direct quote from Mr. Honnold himself, a far-more fearless and likely far more well-travelled and accomplished climber (including trad!) than yourself. What difference does it make to you? You can still use your trad gear as you please. I think trad gear is entirely pointless for my own concerns, which is climbing and not necessarily exposing myself to needless danger all the time (sometimes I do, I also free solo), but you know what, my opinion doesn't involve excluding anybody from enjoying a route. Moving on, tomorrow when I go out to enjoy this wonderfully bolted climb, every time I clip I'm going to say, "Thanks, Kirk and Mark, for the bolts!" and when I get to the top I'm going to shout, "F*%# elitist trad climbers!" :) Oct 18, 2017
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11c
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11c
Totally blowing smoke out of your ass to call this 10c.
Great climbing and position but not 10c.
Not overbolted in my estimation. Well done by the route developers. Sep 11, 2017
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
 
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
 
Really liked this route. As someone else mentioned, the movement is fun but can be a touch awkward in spots. I agree that there are a lot of bolts, but as with many of Kirk Miller's bolt jobs, I can't think of one I'd actually like to subtract. Safe and convenient? Yes. Overbolted? Not so much. Jun 30, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.11b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b
You're welcome, Rhonda. I'm glad you like the route & Dude's. Thanks for commenting. Jun 19, 2017
Rhonda
Golden, CO
Rhonda   Golden, CO
Well put, Mark! Great route and thanks for all the hard work put in at Dude's. May 5, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.11b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b
I should add that this route was equipped & cleaned by Kirk Miller. I only placed the 5th bolt. This was added after Kirk led it without. I felt the 5th bolt was wanted to protect some hard moves climbing right & then up a short arete. Kirk agreed & I added the 5th bolt. Kirk was also the first to redpoint the climb the day of our first ascent. First ascent was on September 21, 2003.

I think Kirk did an excellent job equipping the route, & it is bolted perfectly. Over the past 13.5 years, I have heard almost entirely positive feedback about this route & other climbs at this crag. If placing gear is what you're interested in, then there is no shortage of trad climbing on the Front Range. We established the climbs at Dude's Throne & Little Dude's to create great granite sport crags. There are a few worthy trad & mixed lines as well. Apr 30, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.11b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b
In response to Michalm's comment & grade of 5.10c. Wow, I've heard this climb called 5.11a, but 5.10c is really blowing smoke out of your ass. Regarding your comment about the number of bolts & this being a better route if were a trad (mixed gear & bolts) route, I strongly disagree. I think a large number of climbers would disagree with you, too.

First, most of the bolts that could be skipped are not until the middle of the route. So many climbers would start up the climb thinking it was a sport climb only to find it was rather run-out & they needed gear they didn't bring.

More importantly, mixed routes generally suck. Alex Honnold seems to agree, if you watch the video him & Hazel Findlay climbing Down Under. Once half of more of a route has bolts, who wants to bring a rack to have just the right pieces for a few places. I would rather just enjoy the climbing & unrestrained movement, than have to hang around & dick around with gear to make the climb safe. It is one thing if a climb starts with a nice crack for its first half or even finishes with a nice, long, continuous crack. Clearly, no one would leave the bolt line of Open Space Cowboy to do Missing Link without a rack either.

If you like mixing it up, then establish your own first ascents that way. You have every right to make that choice. If you like skipping some or all of the bolts on existing climbs, great. Just don't expect others to agree with you or adhere to the old school idea that a climb with less bolts is better or more ethical. That's called having a traditude. I would rather not have to bring gear for this climb. I have climbed it numerous times, usually as a warm-up.

Climbs like Dude's Jam Crack or Crack House are protected by all gear. It makes sense not to bolt continuous cracks with good protection. Interestingly, I established Crack House (.12b) at Little Dude's in March 2012. It doesn't appear to have seen a repeat. Go send that one & downrate it to 5.11c.

Interesting that you posted this video of how to place a Powers 5 piece bolt. It appears this bolt is being placed just below a perfectly good, horizontal crack. Perhaps this person isn't big on mixed routes either. Apr 29, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I came back a year later with a small rack. 6 bolts were unnecessary, and most of these were next to perfectly good gear placements. I do not agree with the idea of designating an area a "sport crag" for the convenience of "sport climbers". While Mark Rolofson has established some of my favorite sport climbs, he has also fully bolted many routes that would make for better, challenging trad routes protected by bolts where gear is not available. Learning to adapt to the rock and use the necessary tools to ensure our own safety is an inherent part of climbing. Do you bolt cracks?

youtu.be/XFK4TpTYHe4 Jun 17, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Fun, if awkward, movement on this route and interesting route-finding. This route would be just as safe with 3 fewer bolts for a more enjoyable climbing experience. Jul 13, 2015
Mike Minson
Boulder, CO
Mike Minson   Boulder, CO
Great route. Definitely over bolted. Jul 13, 2015
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
Really nice, not to be missed. Oct 20, 2012
Ben Walburn  
 
Looks can be deceiving. One of the funnest pitches I've climbed in a while. Oct 15, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11b
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11b
Really good variety. Clipping from a heel hook? Fabulous! Jun 21, 2012