Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson, 9/21/2003
Page Views: 5,779 total · 58/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

127 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details


Bring your full bag of tricks for this one; success will demand a bit of route finding, power, and finesse. The movement and exposed positions are memorable to say the least.

Climb easy rock onto a ledge above the belay. From the ledge, the route climbs up and left on beautiful gold rock, traverses right into a corner, and continues up onto the arete and face above.

Say kids, what time is it?

It's Howdy Doody Time!

It's Howdy Doody Time.
It's Howdy Doody Time.
Bob Smith and Howdy Do
Say Howdy Do to you.
Let's give a rousing cheer,
Cause Howdy Doody's here,
It's time to start the show,
So kids let's go!


Near the center of the South face, left of Open Space Cowboy, belay near a convenient boulder seat.


11 bolts to ring anchors.


Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Really good variety. Clipping from a heel hook? Fabulous! Jun 21, 2012
Ben Walburn  
Looks can be deceiving. One of the funnest pitches I've climbed in a while. Oct 15, 2012
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
Really nice, not to be missed. Oct 20, 2012
Mike Minson
Boulder, CO
Mike Minson   Boulder, CO
Great route. Definitely over bolted. Jul 13, 2015
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Fun, if awkward, movement on this route and interesting route-finding. This route would be just as safe with 3 fewer bolts for a more enjoyable climbing experience. Jul 13, 2015
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
I came back a year later with a small rack. 6 bolts were unnecessary, and most of these were next to perfectly good gear placements. I do not agree with the idea of designating an area a "sport crag" for the convenience of "sport climbers". While Mark Rolofson has established some of my favorite sport climbs, he has also fully bolted many routes that would make for better, challenging trad routes protected by bolts where gear is not available. Learning to adapt to the rock and use the necessary tools to ensure our own safety is an inherent part of climbing. Do you bolt cracks?

youtu.be/XFK4TpTYHe4 Jun 17, 2016
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
In response to Michalm's comment & grade of 5.10c. Wow, I've heard this climb called 5.11a, but 5.10c is really blowing smoke out of your ass. Regarding your comment about the number of bolts & this being a better route if were a trad (mixed gear & bolts) route, I strongly disagree. I think a large number of climbers would disagree with you, too.

First, most of the bolts that could be skipped are not until the middle of the route. So many climbers would start up the climb thinking it was a sport climb only to find it was rather run-out & they needed gear they didn't bring.

More importantly, mixed routes generally suck. Alex Honnold seems to agree, if you watch the video him & Hazel Findlay climbing Down Under. Once half of more of a route has bolts, who wants to bring a rack to have just the right pieces for a few places. I would rather just enjoy the climbing & unrestrained movement, than have to hang around & dick around with gear to make the climb safe. It is one thing if a climb starts with a nice crack for its first half or even finishes with a nice, long, continuous crack. Clearly, no one would leave the bolt line of Open Space Cowboy to do Missing Link without a rack either.

If you like mixing it up, then establish your own first ascents that way. You have every right to make that choice. If you like skipping some or all of the bolts on existing climbs, great. Just don't expect others to agree with you or adhere to the old school idea that a climb with less bolts is better or more ethical. That's called having a traditude. I would rather not have to bring gear for this climb. I have climbed it numerous times, usually as a warm-up.

Climbs like Dude's Jam Crack or Crack House are protected by all gear. It makes sense not to bolt continuous cracks with good protection. Interestingly, I established Crack House (.12b) at Little Dude's in March 2012. It doesn't appear to have seen a repeat. Go send that one & downrate it to 5.11c.

Interesting that you posted this video of how to place a Powers 5 piece bolt. It appears this bolt is being placed just below a perfectly good, horizontal crack. Perhaps this person isn't big on mixed routes either. Apr 29, 2017
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
I should add that this route was equipped & cleaned by Kirk Miller. I only placed the 5th bolt. This was added after Kirk led it without. I felt the 5th bolt was wanted to protect some hard moves climbing right & then up a short arete. Kirk agreed & I added the 5th bolt. Kirk was also the first to redpoint the climb the day of our first ascent. First ascent was on September 21, 2003.

I think Kirk did an excellent job equipping the route, & it is bolted perfectly. Over the past 13.5 years, I have heard almost entirely positive feedback about this route & other climbs at this crag. If placing gear is what you're interested in, then there is no shortage of trad climbing on the Front Range. We established the climbs at Dude's Throne & Little Dude's to create great granite sport crags. There are a few worthy trad & mixed lines as well. Apr 30, 2017
Golden, CO
Rhonda   Golden, CO
Well put, Mark! Great route and thanks for all the hard work put in at Dude's. May 5, 2017
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
You're welcome, Rhonda. I'm glad you like the route & Dude's. Thanks for commenting. Jun 19, 2017
Michael Underwood
Broomfield, CO
Michael Underwood   Broomfield, CO
Really liked this route. As someone else mentioned, the movement is fun but can be a touch awkward in spots. I agree that there are a lot of bolts, but as with many of Kirk Miller's bolt jobs, I can't think of one I'd actually like to subtract. Safe and convenient? Yes. Overbolted? Not so much. Jun 30, 2017
Jeff G.
Jeff G.   Lyons
Totally blowing smoke out of your ass to call this 10c.
Great climbing and position but not 10c.
Not overbolted in my estimation. Well done by the route developers. Sep 11, 2017
Ashley M.
Las Vegas, NV
Ashley M.   Las Vegas, NV
I don't know if anyone noticed, but after the 3rd bolt (up and to the left), a rather sizeable section of rock had a fair amount of movement when I briefly held onto it. It was subtle, but thought I should share, since it could be pretty lethal if it broke/fell, especially for the belayer. Oct 1, 2018
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Went back today and all looks good. The only (barely) loose block is on Raven's Brew, left of Howdy Doody. It moves a bit but won't come out; it's locked in and wouldn't budge, even with the application of crowbar and hammer. Oct 12, 2018