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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, May 2004
Page Views: 4,580 total, 53/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Nov 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt. Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt. The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves. Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs. The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs. The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up! Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.

Location

This ascends the center of the south face.

Protection

12 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
 
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
 
I loved this route. Tons of fun. There are plenty of tricky sequences to decipher, and there are numerous burly moves on good holds as well. For those who like creative stems, there are at least three different no-hands stances in the dihedral. Also, I tried both variations of the opening sequence, and two things felt pretty obvious: (1) the engaging direct start up the bolt line is clearly the intent of the FA, and (2) the leftward traverse is much easier and certainly downgrades the route. Regardless of the way you start the climb, I'd recommend clipping up to the second bolt before you commit. The bolt job is great, but a fall between the first and second clips would probably be nasty due to the blocky nature of the starting ledges. Jun 30, 2017
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.12d
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.12d
After doing the direct start yesterday, I would agree with a 12d rating. There's no V6 boulder problems anywhere on this route. The overall effort to send is considerable as the rests are taxing, and there is good punt potential once you pull the roof. Mar 6, 2017
evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12d
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12d
Really a fantastic route with variable styles of climbing! It's unique to immediately switch from powerful roof moves to delicate and tenuous slab climbing. My thoughts on the lower crux: definitely go direct for full flavor, although I would disagree that it clocks in at V6 once your beta is dialed (I've never sent or even come close to sending a proper V6). I also at first explored the left variation, as it is easier, but it felt a bit off route and obviously skirted a more direct approach. Even with the FA direct lower crux, 12d seems appropriate. Mar 20, 2016
drewhouser
  5.12d
drewhouser  
  5.12d
First things first...what a fantastic route! Way to go putting this thing up. As far as the above debate goes, I am in agreement with Mr. Rolofson. Avoiding the direct start by going left absolutely softens the low crux to maybe V4 and "feels" like you are going off route (i.e. it feels like a mistake here would result in a possible awkward fall not intended by the setter). Going direct feels closer to V6 and in my humble opinion makes you feel like you "earned" getting to your rest in the dihedral. Following this up with a balancy pull over the roof requires a fine combination of power, technique, and delicacy and constitutes the crux that can frustratingly keep you from the anchors. Two V6 boulder problems with one rest in between and otherwise continuous climbing...I wouldn't argue too stoutly against a 5.12+/13- rating.

I compare this route to "Sucking My Will to Live" in Clear Creek Canyon. Sucking is commonly referred to as "stout" 12c and one of the most if not the most difficult 12c in the canyon. I think that Double Dominatrix is ever so slightly more difficult. It is definitely a longer route and has more continuous crux sequences.
Now when I think of the upper end of 5.12d, "Twitch" in Clear Creek Canyon comes to mind. Double Dominatrix is less bouldery and has no crux that comes very close to that of Twitch. Therefore, harder than Sucking (12c+) and easier than Twitch (12d+)...well that settled the debate about the grade for me at least. Aug 30, 2015
After watching someone climb the indirect start, it seems very apparent that it wouldn't be a nice fall way to the left of the 2nd bolt. There are good reasons that until 2013 (the first 9 years of this climb's existence) no one went this way. First the direct line is the obvious weakness following a seam crack/vertical edge. Secondly, the less obvious indirect variation looks dangerous. Has anyone fallen off of it? This pendulum fall seems like it would land you crashing into lower angle rock or the short corner below the 1st bolt. You'd best have an attentive belayer who doesn't have a big loop of slack in the rope. Clearly no one would go this way if it wasn't much easier. Until recently very few people argued much with the 5.13a rating. The start was known to shut some climbers down. May 8, 2015
Bobbi Bensman
  5.12d
Bobbi Bensman  
  5.12d
Phenomenal route by a creative human(s)! Bolts right where you need them, complete with fixed chains/biners for the lower off/cleaning of the route. Five stars with several boulder problems to decent rests and pulls a punch at the end! Apr 6, 2015
Yes, there is actually a comfortable no hands rest in the dihedral. I didn't find it until 2011. I orginally found a very dicey, no hands stem that took enough body tension that I couldn't relax & slow my breathing. So I preferred to rest switching hands using lieback holds with feet on good edges. Basically in the same spot with minor adjustment is a great rest which does make the climb seem a bit easier. Mar 15, 2015
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12d
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12d
I've done it with the direct moves and the traverse method, and they feel about the same difficulty wise to me. Didn't find a no-hands rest though. They're also both really cool. I would say the rock on the direct path is better though.

How are there no pictures of this yet?! Oct 26, 2014
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
  5.12d
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
  5.12d
Thanks for that opinion, my personal feeling is the route's logical path is to climb left at the second bolt. It flows really nicely and adds a difficult and technical traverse to the thuggy climbing above. Anybody who has sport climbed long enough has run into routes like this, where new beta was found following the first ascent causing a downgrading; it's a common yearly occurrence in Rifle (re: Piece of Cake / Slice of Life). Regardless of opinion about the grade and the correct method to climb the route, I don't think it's anything to get upset over. What is clear is that it's fun and one of the better lines at Dude's Throne. Oct 17, 2014
I just made my 10th year anniversary ascent of this route, a few months past the actual day of the first ascent. It is still one of my favorite routes. I couldn't believe the chalk 6 or 7 feet left of the 2nd bolt. If you are climbing this far left you're avoiding the route first crux and are climbing a variation. You have no business downrating it. I could see rating the climb 5.12d/13a or as low as 5.12d, but it's not 5.12c. Oct 15, 2014
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.12d
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.12d
Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral. Apr 14, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.13a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.13a
This is a truly amazing climb and one of the best at Dude's. Lots of variety and cool sequences, make this an ultra classic. The bolting is perfect, and the line climbs really well. As far as the grade is concerned, I think there are no 13 moves on it, but with three distinct sections of 12+ climbing with no rest between, 13a is not a stretch. Oct 14, 2013