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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,777 total, 43/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This splendid crack climb would be at right home at Cookie Cliff, or any other granite crack climber's crucible. It is well-protected throughout.

Location

Dude's Jam Crack is one of the more obvious landmarks on the proud south face. It is straight and tall, from bottom to top, in the center-right of the face. If you climb to the top, walking off the back is easy.

Protection

Standard rack, up to a #3 Camalot. An RP is helpful up higher in the "changing corner" section. There is no fixed anchor on top, although before the final 15 feet, it is possible to lean over and clip the bolt anchor for the route to the left. If you intend to build your own anchor on top, a couple of extra medium pieces will come in handy.

Photos

Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
  5.11a
Excellent trad climb and well worth your time. You won't regret lugging your rack to the crag for this one. The route feels easier than the grade would suggest due to the numerous full-recovery rests, but the cruxes (and I felt there were about three of them) seem to range from hard 5.10 to easy 5.11. As an added bonus, the gear is plentiful and bomber. Very confidence-inspiring route, and a nice warm-up if you plan on doing some of the harder climbs at Dude's Throne. Jun 30, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.11a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11a
A fun crack climb with a thin crux using some face holds getting over the first roof. I don't agree the climb is only .10c. Both roofs felt like .11a & the first one maybe as hard as .11a/b. Apr 29, 2017
gumbotron
Denver, CO
  5.10c
gumbotron   Denver, CO
  5.10c
It's really worth taking a rack up to do this route, as it's one of the longest on the cliff. I agree that it's more like mid 5.10. Jul 21, 2015
Mike Minson
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Mike Minson   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Sews up with about 6 pieces. I agree that .11a is generous. Hard .10 for a couple of moves, the rest is really casual. The rock quality is sold with the exception of the "RP" crack which climbs through 5.7 terrain, so there's no need to waste your time trying to get a piece in. Jul 13, 2015
David Carter
Salt Lake City
David Carter   Salt Lake City
Great climbing with good gear throughout. Felt a little soft at 11- to me. The climb sewed up without RPs or anything smaller than a #4 BD stopper. There is currently a big stopper fixed at the upper roof. Apr 6, 2015
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
4 star quality climbing on 2 star quality rock. Jun 24, 2013
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
Amazing line, really fun. Oct 20, 2012
Francisco Di Poi
Boulder, CO
 
Francisco Di Poi   Boulder, CO
 
Sweet line! Get on it if you can...it does not disappoint! Oct 18, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
As good or better than Howdy Doody Time and roughly the same difficulty. The best route I've done to date on the crag. 3 1/2 stars. Aug 20, 2012