Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller, 6/14/03. With direct start: John Flunker, 6/27/03
Page Views: 1,123 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jack Sparrow on Oct 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Climb a face with a crux sequence right off the ground, make a deadpoint to a sloper, hike your feet up, and get a quick shake. A few moderate moves leads to a tricky clip and another 12 b/c crux. This crux is very different than the lower one. I've heard some people start on the boulder next to the climb skipping the first crux. This route is really short anyways, so why skip the starting moves? They add whole another crux and make the route better. If you step from the boulder, it's 12b/c. If you climb directly, it is 12c.

Location

This is to the left of Green Chile.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts.

Photos

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Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
This is a pretty cool route that packs a punch in 25 feet. If you skip the bottom crux (climbing off the ground), then I highly doubt the upper crux warrants 5.12 on its own, maybe 12a at best, but that might be generous. Worth doing, and if it's a hot sunny day, this one is in the shade, but if you can climb on the south face, definitely don't do this route first. There are much higher quality routes on the other side. Sep 28, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b/c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b/c
Yes, the direct start adds to the difficulty, but it's very avoidable. Here's the first ascent date for the climb:
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller on June 14, 2003.
F.A. with direct start: John Flunker on June 27, 2003. Regardless of how you start it, the redpoint crux is still the finish. You can get a great rest below the 3rd bolt. Climbing past the 5th & last bolt involves a technical, insecure sequence that really makes the route! I've climbed it many times but rarely on the first try of the day. I've always felt it earns it 5.12b/c rating. This finish is easier if you climb it right of the last bolt a few feet. I have always clipped the last bolt with my right hand in a horizontal slot. Reached my left hand into a tight two fingertip pocket in the upper horizontal break. Use a thumb undercling on the break with the right hand as an intermediate hold, get the feet up, and dyno with the right hand to a sidepull. Reach a jug. Oct 15, 2014
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b/c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b/c
Mark's beta is spot on perfect, but if you just want to reach the anchor, a jog right strips off a number grade. Aug 31, 2015