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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller, 6/14/03. With direct start: John Flunker, 6/27/03
Page Views: 964 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jack Sparrow on Oct 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

Climb a face with a crux sequence right off the ground, make a deadpoint to a sloper, hike your feet up, and get a quick shake. A few moderate moves leads to a tricky clip and another 12 b/c crux. This crux is very different than the lower one. I've heard some people start on the boulder next to the climb skipping the first crux. This route is really short anyways, so why skip the starting moves? They add whole another crux and make the route better. If you step from the boulder, it's 12b/c. If you climb directly, it is 12c.

Location

This is to the left of Green Chile.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts.

Photos

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b/c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b/c
Mark's beta is spot on perfect, but if you just want to reach the anchor, a jog right strips off a number grade. Aug 31, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b/c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b/c
Yes, the direct start adds to the difficulty, but it's very avoidable. Here's the first ascent date for the climb:
First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, and Kirk Miller on June 14, 2003.
F.A. with direct start: John Flunker on June 27, 2003. Regardless of how you start it, the redpoint crux is still the finish. You can get a great rest below the 3rd bolt. Climbing past the 5th & last bolt involves a technical, insecure sequence that really makes the route! I've climbed it many times but rarely on the first try of the day. I've always felt it earns it 5.12b/c rating. This finish is easier if you climb it right of the last bolt a few feet. I have always clipped the last bolt with my right hand in a horizontal slot. Reached my left hand into a tight two fingertip pocket in the upper horizontal break. Use a thumb undercling on the break with the right hand as an intermediate hold, get the feet up, and dyno with the right hand to a sidepull. Reach a jug. Oct 15, 2014
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
This is a pretty cool route that packs a punch in 25 feet. If you skip the bottom crux (climbing off the ground), then I highly doubt the upper crux warrants 5.12 on its own, maybe 12a at best, but that might be generous. Worth doing, and if it's a hot sunny day, this one is in the shade, but if you can climb on the south face, definitely don't do this route first. There are much higher quality routes on the other side. Sep 28, 2014