Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Vaino Kodas, Dave Turner
Page Views: 3,189 total · 32/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a weird, trickier-than-it-looks sport climb that feels slippery in spots with a few cruxes in its short length just left of Short Dude. Move up on face moves to a thin stretch. The first crux involves a thin left foot move. There's a part where it's just hard to get the hands right. Now move up under a roof. It's a bit awkward to pull over the roof to the right, and somehow the rock gives you a bit less confidence. Now up to the anchors...phew.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

Location

This is the second from the right bolted line on this 3rd face from the left. It is just left of Short Dude.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with a ring and a chain.

Photos

Nathaniel Dray
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Nathaniel Dray   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Pulling directly over the roof and not escaping to the right felt harder than 5.10. It involved an awkward lieback and a tough wide pinch to pull over. More satisfying than taking the easy way out to the right. May 24, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.10d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10d
The intended line at the roof is not to move right around it but rather climb directly over it. It provides an interesting crux finish.
To clarify the start of the climb, it starts with a steep clean slab past 2 past. Apr 29, 2017