Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Dave Turner, Danny Kalb, & CSU crew
Page Views: 1,538 total · 15/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Oct 25, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is like Tai Chi, but practiced where rock and sky meet. I always find climbing at Dude's energizing, particularly on a sunny, crisp fall day. It has a lot of variety in 75 feet. We climbed this after the new guidebook was published.

Location

This is two routes right of Dude's Jam Crack. Start in a left-facing corner/ramp, that has a short roof at the bottom. A mixture of gear and bolts gets you up to and over a strenuous, bucktoothed overhang, a technical overlap, and the headwall above.

Protection

6 protection bolts; Single cams from 1/2" to #2 Camalot, a couple of medium/large stoppers. Extra 1" cam might be helpful. Bolt anchor.

Photos

Todd Ritter
Lafayette
  5.11d
Todd Ritter   Lafayette
  5.11d
Excellent route and well bolted. The trad gear supplements the bolts; all crux moves are bolt protected. One each #0.4-1 C4 along with a few small/med. stoppers is plenty. Two distinct cruxes (blend into one if you miss the rest!) with an "it isn't over yet" finish. Varied climbing throughout. Aug 8, 2011
Pinklebear  
 
Great route, very pumpy and challenging and enjoyable. You must arrive to the headwall roof with a strong preparation for crimping.

If you don't want to lug the whole rack, I placed Metolius orange, then a No 2. Camalot, then Metolius black below the first bolt, then Metolious green (#1 Camalot) between a couple bolts up on the headwall. But that's just what I placed. There are other options, brau. Jul 21, 2012
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
5.11d
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
5.11d
Worthy. Jun 3, 2014
ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
  5.11d
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
  5.11d
Four stars all the way. This could go quite safely without any bolts...but the bolts are there to back up the crux moves, so get on it! Aug 31, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Aside from a lot of wet bat guano below the first roof, I thought this was a super climb and well worthy of bringing gear to the crag. One set of cams from yellow Alien to #1 Camalot was plenty. Sep 17, 2018