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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: John Flunker & Mark Rolofson, July 19, 2003
Page Views: 1,528 total, 29/month
Shared By: ANGUS WIESSNER on Aug 2, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

Major Dude was the first hard route at Dudes.

Ascend the steep face (5.9) just right of a right-facing corner to reach a stance at the base of the overhung face. Move up and left to 6th bolt. Crank over a bulge, and move up right to a jug or shelf below the lip of a small roof. Clip the 7th bolt above the lip & execute a crux sequence using a pinch on a short arête to reach brutal hand jams. Pull over the roof on a flared hand jam to reach a good jug on the right. Finish up overhung face moves.

F.A.: John Flunker & Mark Rolofson on July 19, 2003.

Protection

9 bolts / 2 Fixe rings. Tape gloves on both hands.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c/d
Pretty funny. I'd have to totally disagree. I find this to be the easiest of all the five hard routes (5.12c/d to 5.13a) on Dude's Throne. The fifth being the variation to Major Dude's finish that you are asking about. That info plus the linkup can be found in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". To my knowledge, Vaino Kodas is the only one who has done this variation called Party Trick (.12d).
As for Major Dude, it was our first hard route on the crag. John Flunker sent it twice on the same day when he made the first redpoint & was ready to rate it .12b/c. It took me another day or two to finally redpoint it, & I thought it was .12d. I soon repeated it & have done it a total of 9 times over the years. Vaino Kodas did it quickly in 2003 & thought it was .12c.
I think it much easier than Buster Brown & easier than Brass Monkey or Double Dominatrix. The way people are climbing Double Dominatrix now by traversing around the crux may make it the easiest of the hard routes.
To compare apples to apples (difficult hand jamming), it is much easier than "Van Damage" (.13a/b) at Frisky Cliff that has a lot of technical jamming. The key is a good tape job, otherwise you've one try on Major Dude, because you will cut your hands. Also, it is a bit reach-dependent spanning out to the arête below the crack. May 14, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
This route felt hard, definitely not my style, but felt harder than anything else at the cliff. Does anyone know what the variation just left of this is? It's to the right of Mofo and has black bolts. May 7, 2015
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Any major dude with half a heart surely will tell you my friend
Any minor world that breaks apart falls together again
When the demon is at your door
In the morning it won't be there no more
Any major dude will tell you

˜Steely Dan˜ Aug 3, 2013
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
Really good route, get on it! Aug 3, 2013