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Routes in Dude's Throne

Any Doodle Do S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buster Brown S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chili Power S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Dominatrix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dude's Abs V3-4 6A+
Dude's Cave V2+ 5+
Dude's Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dude's Five Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dude's Jam Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dude's Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Getting Down Before Getting Up V3 6A
Golden Gate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Chile S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Howdy Doody Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impeachment Day Parade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In Harmsen's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Rancher S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Squeeze Party TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs Out For The Lads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Major Dude S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Major Party Plan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Missing Link T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Space Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raven's Brew S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Hot Chili Peppers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Dude S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Chi T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uplift Mofo Party Plan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 8,900 ft
GPS: 39.862, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Oct 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Perched above Dude's Fishing Hole, this seemingly small crag yields some pretty big routes. With a largely Southwest aspect, the crag can be wonderful in the fall as long as the wind isn't howling. Because Dude's sits at a fairly high altitude, the crag is great in the summer as well. An early start yields enough sustained shade to get in a fair bit of climbing on the West and South faces. When the South face is blazing in the sun, the Throne Room on the North face offers cool respite. With a few exceptions, most notably a historic 5.11 crack climb, the routes are bolt protected sport climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.
State Park; Fee Required. Details

Getting There

Once in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, head to the Aspen Meadow Campground, drive through, and continue down to the parking for Dude's Fishing Hole. The crag can be seen from the parking lot and accessed with a contouring hike through the forest on an at times faint climbers' trail or by hiking up from the pond.

Per claytown: it may be worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Road, which becomes Gap Road, then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

Per Cara Hubbell: you need to only walk a bit farther on the road after parking to see a nice, big (newer) sign that says "Attention Climbers!" Follow that trail, and you will see another sign that says "Dude's Throne" with an arrow.

L->R:

North Face

A. Chili Power, 11, 1p, 25', bolts.
B. Red Hot Chili Peppers, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Green Chile, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

West Face

D. Jolly Rancher, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Jolly Squeeze Party, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
F. Uplift Mofo Party Plan, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
GF. Major Party Plan, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Major Dude, 12+, 1p, bolts.
H. Golden Gate, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.

South Face
I. Brass Monkey, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
J. Dude's Dihedral, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Mighty Aphrodite, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
L. Short Dude, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
M. Raven's Brew, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
N. Howdy Doody Time, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
ON. Missing Link, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
O. Open Space Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 85', bolts.
P. Double Dominatrix, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Impeachment Day Parade, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
R. Dude's Jam Crack, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
S. Buster Brown, 13-, 1p, 80' bolts.
T. Sky Chi, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.

U. In Harmsen's Way, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
VU. Dude's Way, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
W. Dude's Five Nine, 9, 1p, 45', bolts.
X. Any Doodle Do, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Jugs Out For The Lads, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.

Cell Phone Coverage

Per J. Broussard: there is no cell phone coverage at this crag.

Regulations

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, Dude's Throne is within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. Thank you.

Moose Alert

Per David Mills: keep dogs on leash around this crag, there is a fully grown female moose that has been spotted multiple times the campground along the road to the approach trail and on the approach trail.

31 Total Climbs

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Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Preston
fort collins,colorado
Preston   fort collins,colorado
I brought my girlfriend's 4 year-old here, and he was fine - just kicked it and played in the dirt. No issue for us navigating the boulders between routes. If anything, I think he had fun. I could see how maybe several kids running around would be a bad idea though. The climbing was awesome! Hard sport routes. I thought Green Chili was super spicy down low and felt hard for 11b. Nov 8, 2017
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
It should be noted that this crag isn't good to bring kids to, because you are basically scrambling between routes. The base of the crag is a boulderfield that descends to the Dude's Fishing Hole far below.

Also, the admin/moderators may want to include in the "Getting There" section that you need to only walk a bit farther on the road after parking to see a nice big sign that says "Attention Climbers!" Follow that trail, and you will see another sign that says "Dude's Throne" with an arrow. We had some confusion about which trail to follow after parking (the one to the fishing hole? keep walking towards the crag?) until we saw that climber's sign. Aug 26, 2017
David Mills
Westminster, CO
David Mills   Westminster, CO
BE AWARE:
Keep dogs on leash around this crag, there is a fully grown female moose that has been spotted multiple times the campground along the road to the approach trail and on the approach trail. Stay aware of your surroundings. Apr 10, 2017
J. Broussard
CordryCorner
J. Broussard   CordryCorner
Huge crowds last weekend. I've never seen more than just a few parties up here in the past. Fortunately, everyone was climbing really hard, making it easy to move around between the moderates (10s and easy 11s).

Seeing the bolting on the stiffer lines, I'm encouraged to get on something more challenging.

No cell reception at the crag, but just west of the entrance to the campground (~3/4mile) is a high point on the road where reception is excellent. Oct 14, 2014
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Maybe worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park (like we did the first time).

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west for about 7 miles. Then turn left on Twin Spruce Gap Road, which becomes Gap Road. Then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

Enjoy! The routes are pretty fun, and it's a chill approach. Jun 22, 2014
Rob Meringolo
Denver, CO
Rob Meringolo   Denver, CO
Found a jacket and dog leash at the base, smack in the middle of the crag. Send a message with a description, and I can reunite items and owner. Jun 6, 2014
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
Awesome crag in the park, most of the routes are extremely well-protected and allow you to make the crux moves without worrying about protection. Nov 10, 2013
Lame question: do you get cell phone service up here?
Thanks
Andy Aug 16, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
SteveZ   Denver, CO
We got stormed off of Dude's Throne pretty quickly today. Because of all the lightning, we ended up leaving draws on buster brown (just left of Dude's Jam Crack). I'll be back up to rescue them on Sunday.... I'm just asking if everyone will be so kind as to leave them up there until then :). Makes for some good non-committal climbing if you're headed out tomorrow. Thanks! Jul 27, 2012
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Good to hear your getting back out there again, Bruce.
Mark Rolofson gives Dude's Dihedral .11b in Golden Rock Climbs. The crux sequence feels like .11 to me. Mar 21, 2012
I haven't been climbing for a few years (illness, injuries) and wondered if Dude's Dihedral is still rated 11-. As I recall from a 2008 ascent, it seemed hard for the grade (or I was off-route). Mar 20, 2012
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
Dude's Throne is a way cool place to climb. Went up there yesterday, perfect weather, got rained on twice for about 5-10 min then cleared up again. All the rock is in great shape. There are some small shrubby plants at the base of Howdy Doody Time but can be easily avoided, and the rock is seeping water from all the rain. Jul 22, 2011
M Lindfors
Highlands Ranch
M Lindfors   Highlands Ranch
Really cool place. Lots of fun climbs makes the hike up there worth it. Jun 5, 2011
For the complete beta to Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and the Grendel, I just released a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" (September 2010) that retails for $20.00. The guide is a complete guide to North Table Mountain including its four quarry walls. The latter part of the book is devoted to the sport climbs near Dude's Fishing Hole in Golden Gate State Park. Yes, it is quite the contrast to North Table's slick basalt and urban setting. For the warm season when the rattlesnakes come out on Table Mountain, head to mountains and nearby Golden Gate for the granite crags above 9,000 feet in beautiful, serene, pine forests. Dude's Throne is one of my favorite crags in Colorado with over 25 routes. Enjoy! Nov 19, 2010

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