Dude's Throne Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,900 ft | 2,713 m |
GPS: |
39.86231, -105.41224 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 132,449 total · 762/month | |
Shared By: | Kirk Miller on Oct 23, 2010 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $10 (2021) fee is required for entrance. Cash/Check only accepted; Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
Description
Perched above Dude's Fishing Hole, this seemingly small crag yields some pretty big routes. With a largely Southwest aspect, the crag can be wonderful in the fall as long as the wind isn't howling. Because Dude's sits at a fairly high altitude, the crag is great in the summer as well. An early start yields enough sustained shade to get in a fair bit of climbing on the West and South faces. When the South face is blazing in the sun, the Throne Room on the North face offers cool respite. With a few exceptions, most notably a historic 5.11 crack climb, the routes are bolt protected sport climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.
Getting There
Once in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, head to the Aspen Meadow Campground, drive through, and continue down to the parking for Dude's Fishing Hole. The crag can be seen from the parking lot and accessed with a contouring hike through the forest on an at times faint climbers' trail or by hiking up from the pond.
Per claytown: it may be worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.
Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Road, which becomes Gap Road, then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.
Per Cara Hubbell: you need to only walk a bit farther on the road after parking to see a nice, big (newer) sign that says "Attention Climbers!" Follow that trail, and you will see another sign that says "Dude's Throne" with an arrow.
Per claytown: it may be worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.
Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Road, which becomes Gap Road, then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.
Per Cara Hubbell: you need to only walk a bit farther on the road after parking to see a nice, big (newer) sign that says "Attention Climbers!" Follow that trail, and you will see another sign that says "Dude's Throne" with an arrow.
L->R:
North Face
A. Chili Power, 11, 1p, 25', bolts.
B. Red Hot Chili Peppers, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Green Chile, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.
West Face
D. Jolly Rancher, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Jolly Squeeze Party, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
F. Uplift Mofo Party Plan, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
GHIJ. [[119179519], 9, 1p, gear.
HF. Major Party Plan, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Major Dude, 12+, 1p, bolts.
I. Golden Gate, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
South Face
K. Brass Monkey, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
L. Dude's Dihedral, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
LM. Slightly Aphrodite, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
M. Mighty Aphrodite, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Short Dude, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
O. Raven's Brew, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
P. Howdy Doody Time, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
QP. Missing Link, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Q. Open Space Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 85', bolts.
R. Double Dominatrix, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
S. Impeachment Day Parade, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Dude's Jam Crack, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
U. Buster Brown, 13-, 1p, 80' bolts.
V. Sky Chi, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
W. In Harmsen's Way, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
XW. Dude's Way, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
Y. Dude's Five Nine, 9, 1p, 45', bolts.
Z. Any Doodle Do, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
AA. Jugs Out For The Lads, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.
A. Chili Power, 11, 1p, 25', bolts.
B. Red Hot Chili Peppers, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Green Chile, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.
West Face
D. Jolly Rancher, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Jolly Squeeze Party, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
F. Uplift Mofo Party Plan, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
GHIJ. [[119179519], 9, 1p, gear.
HF. Major Party Plan, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Major Dude, 12+, 1p, bolts.
I. Golden Gate, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
South Face
K. Brass Monkey, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
L. Dude's Dihedral, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
LM. Slightly Aphrodite, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
M. Mighty Aphrodite, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Short Dude, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
O. Raven's Brew, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
P. Howdy Doody Time, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
QP. Missing Link, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Q. Open Space Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 85', bolts.
R. Double Dominatrix, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
S. Impeachment Day Parade, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Dude's Jam Crack, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
U. Buster Brown, 13-, 1p, 80' bolts.
V. Sky Chi, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
W. In Harmsen's Way, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
XW. Dude's Way, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
Y. Dude's Five Nine, 9, 1p, 45', bolts.
Z. Any Doodle Do, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
AA. Jugs Out For The Lads, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.
Moose Alert
Per David Mills: keep dogs on leash around this crag, there is a fully grown female moose that has been spotted multiple times the campground along the road to the approach trail and on the approach trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Dude's Throne
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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