Elevation: 8,900 ft
GPS: 39.862, -105.412 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,917 total · 704/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Oct 23, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

Perched above Dude's Fishing Hole, this seemingly small crag yields some pretty big routes. With a largely Southwest aspect, the crag can be wonderful in the fall as long as the wind isn't howling. Because Dude's sits at a fairly high altitude, the crag is great in the summer as well. An early start yields enough sustained shade to get in a fair bit of climbing on the West and South faces. When the South face is blazing in the sun, the Throne Room on the North face offers cool respite. With a few exceptions, most notably a historic 5.11 crack climb, the routes are bolt protected sport climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13.

Getting There

Once in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, head to the Aspen Meadow Campground, drive through, and continue down to the parking for Dude's Fishing Hole. The crag can be seen from the parking lot and accessed with a contouring hike through the forest on an at times faint climbers' trail or by hiking up from the pond.

Per claytown: it may be worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Road, which becomes Gap Road, then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

Per Cara Hubbell: you need to only walk a bit farther on the road after parking to see a nice, big (newer) sign that says "Attention Climbers!" Follow that trail, and you will see another sign that says "Dude's Throne" with an arrow.

L->R:

North Face

A. Chili Power, 11, 1p, 25', bolts.
B. Red Hot Chili Peppers, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Green Chile, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

West Face

D. Jolly Rancher, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Jolly Squeeze Party, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
F. Uplift Mofo Party Plan, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
GHIJ. [[119179519], 9, 1p, gear.
HF. Major Party Plan, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Major Dude, 12+, 1p, bolts.
I. Golden Gate, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.

South Face
K. Brass Monkey, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
L. Dude's Dihedral, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
LM. Slightly Aphrodite, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
M. Mighty Aphrodite, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
N. Short Dude, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
O. Raven's Brew, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.
P. Howdy Doody Time, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
QP. Missing Link, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Q. Open Space Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 85', bolts.
R. Double Dominatrix, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
S. Impeachment Day Parade, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Dude's Jam Crack, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
U. Buster Brown, 13-, 1p, 80' bolts.
V. Sky Chi, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts, gear.

W. In Harmsen's Way, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.
XW. Dude's Way, 11-, 1p, 45', bolts.
Y. Dude's Five Nine, 9, 1p, 45', bolts.
Z. Any Doodle Do, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
AA. Jugs Out For The Lads, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.

Cell Phone Coverage

Per J. Broussard: there is no cell phone coverage at this crag.

Regulations

Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, Dude's Throne is within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. Thank you.

Moose Alert

Per David Mills: keep dogs on leash around this crag, there is a fully grown female moose that has been spotted multiple times the campground along the road to the approach trail and on the approach trail.

33 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dude's Throne

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 144
Jugs Out For The Lads
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
In Harmsen's Way
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 135
Any Doodle Do
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 129
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Dude's Jam Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
Dude's Way
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Short Dude
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 176
Howdy Doody Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 99
Uplift Mofo Party Plan
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
Dude's Dihedral
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
Golden Gate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 74
Impeachment Day Parade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 120
Open Space Cowboy
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 55
Double Dominatrix
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 73
Buster Brown
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jugs Out For The Lads
 144
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
In Harmsen's Way
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Any Doodle Do
 135
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Aphrodite
 129
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dude's Jam Crack
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Dude's Way
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Short Dude
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Howdy Doody Time
 176
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Uplift Mofo Party Plan
 99
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dude's Dihedral
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Golden Gate
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Impeachment Day Parade
 74
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Open Space Cowboy
 120
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Double Dominatrix
 55
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buster Brown
 73
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Dude's Throne »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 12pm to 7pm during high season
6am
8pm

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