Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller, June 8, 2003
Page Views: 5,095 total · 55/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on May 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Burly, thuggish 5.11 leads to the first crux. After pulling the tricky .12a undercling traverse, pull up onto a slab to rest up for the second .12a crux; thin, powerful moves lead to big holds to pull through the roof to the anchors.

Location

This is right of Howdy Doody Time, left of Double Dominatrix.

Protection

12 bolts to chains.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.12a
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.12a
Excellent route with a variety of interesting moves... nice, pumpy finish too! Sep 30, 2012
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Is this really 12 a/b? Seems soft, as far as Shelf and Flatirons standards, mayby BC standards.... Oct 15, 2012
Ben Walburn  
 
Kevin, you're just a pulling down machine. Great route with some really fun climbing on the lower half and the pumpy finish. Oct 15, 2012
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Well, I'll take that. Glad you guys had fun. Oct 15, 2012
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
  5.12a
You're probably right, Kevin. 12a seems to be the going consensus. I'll go with that. Oct 26, 2012
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Regardless, one of the best routes in the Front Range. Oct 27, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12a/b
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.12a/b
Excellent route. Two 12 cruxes. I'm gonna say 12a/b for BoCan. Well protected, such a teacher! Dec 3, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Tricky route for the onsight.... Pretty cool engaging moves with a crux down low and one up high. Brilliant! Jun 20, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
This was our first route on the crag & in Golden Gate. First ascent date was June 8, 2003. Always fun to repeat, but I keep cutting my left arm below 5th bolt unless I tape or wear a jacket. Jun 4, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
This is a really fun route. The holds are all quite good, but the pump factor is high on this one. Fortunately, there is a really good rest before each crux to depump. The sequences are less than immediately obvious at first. There could be 2-3 fewer bolts without a detriment to safety. 5.9 moves don't need to be protected as closely as 11+ moves and being able to make a few moves before a clip makes for a more pleasant climbing experience. Jul 13, 2015
Brett S.
Colorado
  5.12a
Brett S.   Colorado
  5.12a
Rad climb. My first time up at Golden Gate, and I must say, I am impressed. This crag has great ambiance, tucked in the forest on a hillside. Such a different vibe than the more urban setting of CCC and North Table. The bottom crux felt a bit harder than the upper crux. Very fun route. This would be a good entry into the .12a grade, there's a bolt about every 5 ft.! Sep 7, 2015
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
5.12
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
5.12
I'm surprised people call this soft. I think this is nearly as hard as Double Dominatrix. I'd like to see some 11+ beta. Mar 6, 2017
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
 
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
 
Sent this yesterday, after working the sequences last summer. Gotta say it's tons of fun. Anyone who can send Howdy Doody Time, the 11b next to it, should try this route. Good rests between the cruxes, and both sequences are really a blast. Aug 28, 2017
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.12b
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.12b
Real hard for 12a. I don't get how people are down rating this one. Not at all a good intro to 5.12. Sep 11, 2017
Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
 
Chris Hatzai   Bend, OR
 
Killer route...this would be 4 star line anywhere in the country. Stellar climbing all the way to the anchors. Oct 13, 2018