Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, Dave Turner
Page Views: 1,575 total · 16/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This is the right start to the 4th bolted line from the right. This is a route where it's probably best not to have sloppy shoes for the average climber. Crux moves right off the deck with crimping and thin foot holds challenge you. Fortunately, you get a decent left hand sidepull. Shortly, you gain the juggy ledge where you can mantle up. Probably best not to blow this section where the rock is in your face. Ascend far more moderate terrain past 5 more bolts to the top.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

Location

This is the 4th line from the right which merges at its second bolt with In Harmsen's Way to its left.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a/b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a/b
The start and crux are difficult if you are short. Aug 10, 2012
TSluiter
Holland, VT
TSluiter   Holland, VT
The anchors are set back a little over a ledge. If you plan on TR, might want to bring long slings for your anchor to reduce the rub, though you'll lose the last mantle move to the top. Jun 7, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.11-
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.11-
The eighth bolt is awkwardly placed and has the possibility to open the bottom gate on your draw if you are not careful. An extended draw will fix this. I also second the recommendation for extending the top anchors to reduce what otherwise is kinda rough rope drag. You will need the equivalent of 2 double length slings per each anchor since the anchors are so far back from the edge. Nov 9, 2013
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Two fun moves followed by moderate climbing. My friend warmed up on this in his Guide Tennies... good climbing shoes! Jul 13, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
5.11a
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
5.11a
Even though the ending is much more moderate doesn't mean the tough moves off the deck aren't 11. Not the best line, since it's not continuous and a little awkward at the top. I'm sure a strong climber with good grip strength could do this in approach shoes, but I bet 5.10 climber would struggle. Jun 23, 2016