Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: FA 1965 Bob Waring, John Wells, Bruce Holcomb. FRFA: 1974 Rich Borich
Page Views: 2,620 total · 24/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on May 8, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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This line was one of the first routes at Broughton Bluff. This route deserves to be on your tick list if you enjoy adding a little adventure to your climbs.

Pitch 1 (5.8) - There are many variations for this first pitch. The most direct is a wide crack just left of From Something to Nothing. See the the entries "Hanging Gardens Left" and "Hobbit Hole" for more options. The chimney start begins with an awkward move over a low bulge, and then a lot of slithering up to the pruned maple tree. Very run-out but protected when you need it and otherwise secure because you're inside the crack. There is an anchor below and left of the tree if you must pitch it out.

Pitch 2 (5.8) - From here, move up past the tree onto a slab under a small roof and traverse across the slab. Climb up a short bulge directly after the slab and continue moving right, clipping two bolts and a piton with anchor hardware. From the wide ledge, look right and slightly down for anchors (this is for FStN and Fun in the Mud) about fifteen feet right. There isn't really any pro across this section but the climbing isn't too bad either.

Pitch 3 (10a) - Very rarely climbed due to its convoluted approach, traversing nature, and abundance of poison oak. Follow the path of least resistance up and right about 20 feet past a small tree and onto an arete with bolts looming above on an overhang. Look around the corner and you will see a line of bolts and pitons traversing a slightly overhung wall. This section is the crux of the climb and is stiff for the 10a grade. Continue traversing right to a bunch of shrubs and a medium sized tree where you will find an anchor.


In the middle of Hanging Gardens right half about 20 feet right of Loose Block Overhangs obvious off width crack.


Gear to 1.5 inches. Depending on the first pitch variation you choose, this could be up to 4 inches.