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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: 1977, McGown/Yates
Page Views: 908 total, 9/month
Shared By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This mixed climbs starts up past 3 bolts on slabby ground, to underneath a bulging roof that's broken by a thin crack. Takes pro after reaching the bulge, and through the roof crux. After an exciting move up & over the bulge, continue up past 1 more bolt and over another bulge by heading to the right, then traverse back left to reach the anchor bolts (shared with From Something to Nothing).

The slabby section above the crux roof can often be very dirty & mossy, making it a little spooky to get to the last bolt.

Location

Right side of Hanging Gardens wall. This is the right of the two easily visible bolt lines on the far right side of hanging gardens.

Protection

4 bolts & gear to ~2". A small nut protects the crux well.
Rappel from metolius rap hangers.

Photos

Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Definitely longer than 40'. The Crux is bouldery and strenuous. It's a tad dirty. Jul 21, 2016