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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,770 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ebb Ebbing on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

"An original 1960's climb" per Tim Olson's book. Fun, varied climb involving a little chimney, some crack holds and some face moves.

Location

Hanging Gardens Wall - "Left Half," (but is on the far right of the "left half," so is pretty much in the middle of the wall). To the right of the two parallel cracks (Tip City and Lean Years). These three routes all join up at the ledge.

Protection

TR or Pro to 4"

Photos

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From the trail up top, the anchors aren't visible but are accessible around a large block near the largest conifer. You can scramble from either side of the block without a rope but footing is poor so protection is a very good idea. Anchors are rusty but look solid.

The bottom of the route is fun and matches the description. It is dirty and overgrown, though, and there is rope drag. Made me wonder if I was on an established route at all! Chocks in the chimney are handy holds but they do move. Jul 5, 2018

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