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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Olsen, Jay Kerr-1979
Page Views: 1,936 total, 15/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 8, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This awesome fingercrack will test not only your crack technique but your ability to place gear from strenuous positions. It looks straightforward from the ground, but the difficult fingercrack down low builds a pump quickly. Hanging out to get in a piece at the top with one fingerlock and nothing but smears for your feet leaves most redlined for what looks like a simple exit, but heartbreakingly turns out to be the crux of the route. After you finesse the weird, slopey exit to the crack the climbing becomes much mellower but still fun as you negotiate easy terrain and then one final weird 5.9 chimney/stem move to reach the top.

Location

Locate the obvious clean fingercrack about 20 feet to the right of the popular Hammer and Sickle routes on the far left end of the Hanging Gardens wall.

Protection

Gear to 1" with extra .4-.5" pieces for the splitter fingercrack down low.

Photos

George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
Gear notes: Singles .3 - 2 BD, unless you don't use nuts (including an offset nut) in the finger crack, in which case I would bring doubles of .4 and .5. Jun 27, 2015
Chris Heiler
Portland, OR
  5.10b R
Chris Heiler   Portland, OR
  5.10b R
In order to keep your climber safe when toproping Tips City make sure you take all slack out while he/she is working on the finger crack. The climber should feel a slight pull on the rope! Even so my climbing partner decked yesterday if only slightly just from the rope stretch. Be careful - It's a beautiful route though and well worth the effort!
Leading on trad (if you can stand the burn) is probably the safer way to go as there's a lot less stretch in the rope. Make sure to place more than two pieces in the crack! Jun 8, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
Fun finger crack for the first section. The rest of the route is ledgy scrambling to a single awkward bulge and contrived extension across dodgy flakes. A little hyperbole perhaps. The finger crack is fun, the rest is not so much. Oct 4, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
Heard of a guy decking off this route and sustaining a compound fracture. Be careful up there. May 3, 2012
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10b/c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10b/c
At the chimney/stem move at the top, do not head right or you will be in a world of hurt! Apr 16, 2010