Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Monty Mayko, Jim Garrett-1975
Page Views: 2,783 total · 19/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007 with improvements by rl23455
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A classic, old-school route breaching the Hanging Gardens wall's left side. This route combines some physical, but manageable wide crack climbing down low with a steep, overhanging bulge up high.

P1(5.9)--Like many of its neighboring climbs on the Hanging Gardens wall this route has numerous possible variations leading to the first pitch anchors, but the most direct line goes up a nice offwidth crack. The left variation is 5.7 skirting an off-width roof with no pro. Put a 5" cam up before you go past the roof. The right variation(5.8) starts on a shorter column and then follows the curving crack to a final traverse to the shared anchor.

P2(5.9)--The second pitch ascends the steep headwall above via faceholds and awkward jams in the crack. The beginning of this is strange and the holds seem to all face the wrong way, but the crux is brief and perfectly protected so just go for it! Once past the bulge the climbing continues through more steep but thankfully moderate terrain to the next set of anchors at a nice ledge up right.

These can easily be combined into one pitch, making for a longer, more enjoyable climb.

Location

About 20 feet to the right of Tips City on the Hanging Garden Wall's left side. Easily identified by the 3-4" crack that starts about 10 feet up.

Protection

Cams to 4", plus a sling for a chockstone near the top of pitch one.

Photos