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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Monty Mayko, Jim Garrett-1975
Page Views: 2,352 total, 18/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A classic, old-school route breaching the Hanging Gardens wall's left side. This route combines some physical, but manageable wide crack climbing down low with a steep, overhanging bulge up high.

P1(5.8)--Like many of its neighboring climbs on the Hanging Gardens wall this route has numerous possible variations leading to the first pitch anchors, but the most direct line goes up a nice offwidth crack.

P2(5.9)--The second pitch ascends the steep headwall above via faceholds and awkward jams in the crack. The beginning of this is strange and the holds seem to all face the wrong way, but the crux is brief and perfectly protected so just go for it! Once past the bulge the climbing continues through more steep but thankfully moderate terrain to the next set of anchors at a nice ledge up right.

These can easily be combined into one pitch, making for a longer, more enjoyable climb.

Location

About 20 feet to the right of Tips City on the Hanging Garden Wall's left side. Easily identified by the 3-4" crack that starts about 10 feet up.

Protection

Cams to 4", plus a sling for a chockstone near the top of pitch one.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Climbed it again today and placed the #4 just above the first bulge and thus was very run-out going into the last move (a #5 could also fit here). I down-climbed and stepped right into the hand crack and finished P1 that way. This created too much drag to finish the route as a single pitch though. May 20, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
This route is best done as a single pitch to the top. If doing this, bring doubles from 1-3", a 4" piece, and some slings. The business on the offwidth down low is fun, and the crux in the middle is all of 5.9+. One last move around the final bulge gets the blood flowing before you top out. Belay off a tree or something.

Anchor bolts on this route are rather manky. Do not suggest climbing the bolted junk on the right side. Sep 28, 2014
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
Is there actually a loose overhanging block? Is it a safety concern or just a name? Jun 25, 2012
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9
My first trad lead, back in may of 07. now I'm going on to 5.12. Sep 3, 2008
Mr. Stickleback
Portland
 
Mr. Stickleback   Portland
 
Best when climbed as one pitch. Dec 10, 2007
Greg Coulter  
5.9
A very enjoyable route. Excellent pro and solid holds. Was a bit dirty and looked as though it had not been climbed in a while, yet still very enjoyable. Aug 15, 2007