Avg: 2.6 from 51 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Monty Mayko, Jim Garrett-1975|
|Page Views:||3,638 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
A classic, old-school route breaching the Hanging Gardens wall's left side. This route combines some physical, but manageable wide crack climbing down low with a steep, overhanging bulge up high.
P1(5.9)--Like many of its neighboring climbs on the Hanging Gardens wall this route has numerous possible variations leading to the first pitch anchors, but the most direct line goes up a nice inset hands to off-width crack. The left variation is 5.7 skirting an off-width roof with no pro. Put a 5" cam up before you go past the roof. The right variation, previously listed as "Slow Drag" and 5.8 but Olson calls 10a, starts on a shorter column with no gear and then follows the curving crack to a final traverse to the shared anchor.
P2(5.9)--The second pitch ascends the steep headwall above via face holds and awkward jams in the crack. The beginning of this is strange and the holds seem to all face the wrong way, but the crux is brief and perfectly protected so just go for it! Once past the bulge the climbing continues through more steep but thankfully moderate terrain, past the anchor for Slapfest, to the next set of anchors at a nice ledge up right.
These can easily be combined into one pitch, making for a longer, more enjoyable climb.