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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 205 total, 7/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Jun 7, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb up a slab with broken cracks to the right of an anchor 30' off the ground below the short overhangs. Pull over the overhang to the right, with fun hand and finger jams through the overhang (10a crux on gear) to another anchor above. Then continue up broken cracks (right of a bolted arete called Black Prow). You will reach a stance and you will see a dihedral with new SS bolts going up it. Follow the bolts to a new anchor with rap rings at the top of the cliff.
I cleaned it up when I sent it this week, and it is in good shape and well worth climbing!

Location

As you start up the trail to the Hanging Gardens wall, look for the first clean section of rock and a anchor 30' off the ground. Start here, and the route goes over the bulge just right of the anchor.

Protection

Gear to 2".

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