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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: 1987, Wallace/Olson
Page Views: 1,024 total, 10/month
Shared By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A fun and easily accessible sport climb. The grade makes it inviting, but a couple challenging crux sections can catch people off guard.
The start appears mossy and the first bolt is quite high. But easy climbing up the flake & wide crack to the left make getting to the first bolt fairly straight-forward. A 4-5" cam or large hex can be used to protect the runout to the first bolt. The tough parts come at around the 3rd and 5th bolts, and it's not uncommon to see bail 'biners here.

Location

Right side of Hanging Gardens wall. This is the left of the two easily visible bolt lines on the far right side of hanging gardens.

Protection

6 draws + anchors. Optional large piece to protect getting to the first bolt. Rappel from Metolius rap rings.

Photos

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Bob Graham  
 
Great climbing, a lot of trickery at the cruxes, needs more traffic, tough for the grade. May 22, 2014