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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tim Olson, Cindy Long-92
Page Views: 1,055 total · 8/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Slapfest is an excellent and very unusual climb to be found at Broughton Bluff. It offers a superb blend of technical arete climbing down low and burly sloper squeezing up high leading to the crux exit onto the ledge at forty feet. The first 15 feet ascend a thin crack with gear for pro to reach the top of a pillar where the climbing really starts. The clips on this route are difficult and you must be careful not to blow them or you'll risk decking on the pillar. Once the ledge is reached, continue through easier terrain to the anchors atop the second pitch of Loose Block Overhang.

Location

Starts atop the pillar just right of Loose Block Overhang.

Protection

Small gear down low, bolts for the rest.

Photos

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Well, I got to test my theory about decking if you blow the clip this morning and sure enough, deck I did. Not much fun, I'm gonna be limping for a little while and I landed fairly well considering. That second clip is incredibly dicey, so I think I'm gonna be using double ropes next time. Jul 5, 2007
orclimber
Portland, OR
 
orclimber   Portland, OR
 
We did it with bouldering pads on top of that pillar and it was still scary. Fortunately, we didn't have to test the decking possibility. This climb seems better in cool weather, since the feet are so technical. Jan 31, 2009
Detchy
Portland, OR
  5.12a/b PG13
Detchy   Portland, OR
  5.12a/b PG13
What a cool little climb!

From the crack, venture out onto the smooth face through gastons and side-pulls, while standing on a grippy sloping ripple for feet, follow it up with some body tension moves and an awesome sequence of crux slopers that feel like Montana granite. It gets heady from the second to third bolt due to the flat-topped pillar 15 feet below you, so don't blow the clip.

PS: Watch out for the giant Poison Oak bush growing out of the cliff, directly right of the crux zone. Jul 18, 2013
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Would this route be safer with a pre-hung draw on the 3rd bolt? Jan 27, 2015
another Chad
  5.12a/b PG13
another Chad  
  5.12a/b PG13
No, not really. I thought the clips were relatively easy. Not falling between them, well....

Using a single carabiner on the second bolt is a good idea.

Adam, I am so confused. There's a jug sidepull in the left crack one can use to clip the second bolt with.


Chad Oct 16, 2015

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