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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,165 total, 62/month
Shared By: Ebb Ebbing on Jun 6, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Follow the crack/dihedral up to the ledge on top of the overhanging block.  This section can be led using trad.  From there, head up to the left and around the corner (crux).  Then face climb to the anchors.  There are bolts on this second section.  Per  Tim Olson's book:  "Climb up the left corner of (the) detached block, and step onto a large ledge, then embark up left onto the bolted prow and face climb on interesting edges to the belay anchor above."A top rope can be placed by taking the trail up to the left and around behind the routes.

Location

Start to the right of Giant's Staircase, but to the left of the large overhanging block (tomahawk).  2nd route (L to R) on the left half of Hanging Gardens Wall.

Protection

TR or mixed trad/sport (trad start).  Pro to 2" and 4 QD's.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
After five years, I came back to this route. Pretty good climb, though I have to say the grade is somewhat sandbagged, unless you're comparing it to other routes at the crag (The Sickle 5.9, Gandalf's Grip 5.9+, Lost Boys 5.10d, etc). Slickness wasn't so much of an issue as I was expecting it, but it's definitely noticeable. Oct 8, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.8
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.8
Burk S......no, did the move straight up off the top of the pillar, right of the 1st bolt. Cool move with just smears for the feet. Probably harder than 5.8 this way, but WELL protected. I definitely agree with Colin's comments regarding the feet. Jul 18, 2013
Rich C  
I did this as my first ever basalt climb yesterday (just moved from Colorado). I was impressed in the quality of movement and variety of holds and positions. If you are tall, add a grade and skip the obvious rest on top of the huge ledge. fire straight up the head wall for a fun runout above a bomber #2. I didnt feel greasy and the rock was of fine quality. Lots of high feet!! Nov 11, 2012
Hello Burk,
I do a short traverse towards the left in the area of the first bolt. Heel hook sounds fun though! Jul 11, 2012
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
  5.8
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
  5.8
I just lead up this one a few weeks back and I expected it to be a cake-walk, but that was not the story. I am glad I'm not the only one that thought the rock was super polished. Did you guys do a short traverse after clipping the first bolt and climb on the left of the column where the obvious foot holds are? Initially I tried a heal hook, but it was a bit awkward and required immense flexibility; then I found the ledge on the other side. Jun 25, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Great diverse route. I wasn't bothered by any polishing, it just feels like another Broughton Bluff basalt route... I would argue that the bolted section felt very tricky! Jun 12, 2012
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8
Climbed this route last weekend as a warmup. It was a lot more fun than I expected, being a ledgy 5.8. The footholds are a bit polished, but it's not really a big deal IMO. Jun 12, 2011
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
The holds on this route are super-polished. I don't even want to think about trying to pull down if it's wet at all. There is a greased-up, glassy-smooth ledge just as you get into the bolted section that is of particular concern. One slip on those tiny polished edges and you're taking a tumble. Holds are there, but this route scares the beejees outta me! Nov 15, 2010