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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: 1975, Casey/Mayko
Page Views: 834 total · 7/month
Shared By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route makes for a thought-provoking approach to climbs on the upper portion of the wall, like Sesame Street.
Start up the fairly easy wide crack until you're standing on top of a large flake, next to a maple bush. Step up to a short finger crack that traverses up and left, then step around the corner. proceed up the thin crack in the corner to find larger holds where B.F.D. joins with the Hanging Gardens route.
Once you reach 2 fixed pitons, continue to the right on the H.G. route, or head up and left to the chains at the base of Sesame Street.

Location

Right side of Hanging Gardens Wall. Just to the left of 2 bolt-lines, and to the right of the start of the Hanging Gardens Route. Shares start moves with Mr. Potato and From Something to Nothing.

Protection

Pro to 2-3" with recommended emphasis on small cams/tcus. Optional very large gear to protect the start to the top of the flake.

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