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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,758 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mr. Stickleback on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Start with the off-width pitch of Hanging Gardens bypassing the maple tree belay veering right to the bolted belay in a corner and nice ledge. Climb the zig zag crack on jugs and good jams for a brief fury of moves to another bolted belay about 20 feet higher. Single 60m rope gets you to the ground.


Hanging Gardens wall


Cams between 1 to 3 inches


This is a great, but very short, route. As the info says, approach via Hanging Gardens 1st pitch, continuing into the 2nd pitch of H.G. right and up. A 2-piton anchor (no slings, old pins) will be visible as you climb up. From here, Sesame Street is clearly visible. I'd recommend pitching it out into 2 pitches, as opposed to 1 long pitch (doable, but bring plenty of runners). Wish it were longer.

Gear: In addition to cams 1-3", a few small to medium stoppers were pretty nice to have on the H.G. pitch. Apr 17, 2010
You can do this in a single pitch from the ground if you do the more direct approach and climb B.F.D instead of Hanging Gardens. (a couple runners between the pitons & the bottom of the crack will help with drag - and don't clip the bolt anchors). A 70M rope is recommended for linking it up this way.

It's funny how the beta picture makes it look almost slabby. Apr 19, 2010
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
The crux requires some SOLID climbing technique. Climbed many a 5.10 that came easier. Jul 21, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Can be done as a single pitch via Hanging Gardens first pitch-and-a-half using lots of runners. Save gear from #.75-3. It is tempting to climb the right side of the flake, but I found it was easier to climb the left side straight up into the finger- then hand-jams. Quick-clip anchor. Can be top-roped with a 60m rope. May 20, 2017

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