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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,725 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mr. Stickleback on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start with the off-width pitch of Hanging Gardens bypassing the maple tree belay veering right to the bolted belay in a corner and nice ledge. Climb the zig zag crack on jugs and good jams for a brief fury of moves to another bolted belay about 20 feet higher. Single 60m rope gets you to the ground.

Location

Hanging Gardens wall

Protection

Cams between 1 to 3 inches

Photos

BenCooper  
 
This is a great, but very short, route. As the info says, approach via Hanging Gardens 1st pitch, continuing into the 2nd pitch of H.G. right and up. A 2-piton anchor (no slings, old pins) will be visible as you climb up. From here, Sesame Street is clearly visible. I'd recommend pitching it out into 2 pitches, as opposed to 1 long pitch (doable, but bring plenty of runners). Wish it were longer.

Gear: In addition to cams 1-3", a few small to medium stoppers were pretty nice to have on the H.G. pitch. Apr 17, 2010
hemp22
  5.9+
hemp22  
  5.9+
You can do this in a single pitch from the ground if you do the more direct approach and climb B.F.D instead of Hanging Gardens. (a couple runners between the pitons & the bottom of the crack will help with drag - and don't clip the bolt anchors). A 70M rope is recommended for linking it up this way.

It's funny how the beta picture makes it look almost slabby. Apr 19, 2010
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.10b/c
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.10b/c
The crux requires some SOLID climbing technique. Climbed many a 5.10 that came easier. Jul 21, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
Can be done as a single pitch via Hanging Gardens first pitch-and-a-half using lots of runners. Save gear from #.75-3. It is tempting to climb the right side of the flake, but I found it was easier to climb the left side straight up into the finger- then hand-jams. Quick-clip anchor. Can be top-roped with a 60m rope. May 20, 2017

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