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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,330 total · 56/month
Shared By: Mark Goodro on May 14, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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77 Opinions

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Description

Short curving offwidth crack that starts 30 ft up the Hanging Garden wall to the right of Edges and Ledges. Can be top-roped or led from the ground up.

Location

Route is about 10 ft to the right of Edges and Ledges. The anchor can be reached by hiking around from behind, or the route can be started by first climbing the lower wall to the ledge at base of the Sickle Crack.

Protection

Standard rack. Bolted anchor at the top.

Photos

BenCooper  
 
The upper portion of Sickle is awesome. Great jams deep in the sickle-crack, great gear, and solid rock. The bottom portion presents many options, and I'm not sure whether these are different routes or simply alternate starts. I did a start to the right of what is shown as the red-dashed line in the photo. Nice finger locks and jugs, probably around 5.8.

Get on it! It's a great route. May 18, 2009
Teh Phuzzy  
 
The bottom option presented is a 5.8. Step over two columns and you get a .9 option. And two more over is the "standard" route at .7 (all PRC)

The 8 is the most fun IMHO, but there is fun stemming all over if you are 6'+ and do yoga.

Great climb. Jul 18, 2010
Teh Phuzzy  
 
Teh Phuzzy  
 
And, the Hammer has its own set of anchors Jul 18, 2010
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
All three starts to this route are fun. The 5.8 did seem the best. According to the Portland Rock Climbing book you need pro to 4" for this route. This is totally untrue, a #2 and #3 camalot provide great protection for the crux. Enjoy some awesome fist jams through the curving crack! Jun 12, 2012
Burk S.
Lebanon, Oregon
 
Burk S.   Lebanon, Oregon
 
I did the thin crack between the 8 and 9 and really liked it. It takes small gear well, however, it was a weeping a bit after a few days of rain followed by one day of sunshine. Jun 28, 2012
daloc22  
left two draws by accident yesterday (09/24/15) on the anchor above the hammer.

please do not take, am returning to grab them by this weekend. feel free to use them for the time being though! Sep 25, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Oh god this is not a 5.8 or I have gotten really bad at rock climbing. Oct 8, 2015
Derek Tatum
  5.9+
Derek Tatum  
  5.9+
The curving crack up high is much harder than 5.8 but the bottom blocky section is 5.8 & fun Apr 10, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
5.8
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
5.8
This route is most definitely 5.8 through the upper section. Two solid fist jams, and it's over. Apr 11, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Led it again yesterday, and apparently need to once again clarify that this route is a 5.8 nowhere. After climbing sandstone hand/fist cracks in Liming, China for a month I can assuredly say this route is easily 9+/10- pretty much everywhere else in the world. Apr 3, 2017
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.8
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.8
What Micah said. A couple solid fist jams and it's over. IMO, it's easier than the wide crack on the Hanging Gardens Route, which is rated 5.8. May 10, 2018
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9+
Is the finger crack just to the right of the wider, 5.8 line an actual option? I lead this yesterday, and it felt 5.9+. It's not listed on the topo photo however... May 23, 2018
another Chad  
5.8
Patrick, I’m not sure what you are asking? Being one of the most heavily trafficked climbs at Broughton, every variation of climbing on those columns happens at a pretty regular interval.

Chad May 23, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
There are several starts, some of them harder than others. Carson and Micah and hardmen for whom anything under 5.11 is the same grade. May 24, 2018
hemp22
 
hemp22  
 
I think Patrick is talking about the thin fingers start variation that's right behind the tree in the topo photo. that is certainly a valid option and gets done regularly - it just could make rope drag a little worse due to the longer traverse from the top of the columns over to the sickle crack. I also think this variation is probably 5.9+ or 10a May 25, 2018

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