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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,660 total, 30/month
Shared By: Teh Phuzzy on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Take Sickle to the obvious ledge. Go right into "A rather difficult, short jam crack high step crux off the upper main legde [aforementioned] leads to easier jams and smears near the anchor." (PRC)

Location

Hammer and Sickle you commie bastards

Protection

to 3" or hike around for TR

Photos

das1405
Portland
 
das1405   Portland
 
This climb is quite a bit harder if you take a variation to the right for the first half of the climb. Start to the right of the tree (about 3-4 feet to the right of the route shown in the Beta photo) and climb up into the chimney. I don't think this variation has a name but the book lists it as a .10-.
NOTE:I did this on TR - it didn't seem like it would take pro very well - maybe some small nuts. Mar 21, 2016
berl
Seattle
berl   Seattle
I find the little slab above the handcrack to be the most thought-provoking... the thought usually being something like "get some gear in now because otherwise you're looking at a fall or swing onto the ledge at the base of the handcrack." Jun 15, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Pro to 2" will sew this up. It's pretty straightforward, unlike the "rather difficult" comment in the guidebook. If you know how to handjam then you should be fine. Jun 15, 2012