Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,185 total · 31/month
Shared By: Teh Phuzzy on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Take Sickle to the obvious ledge. Go right into "A rather difficult, short jam crack high step crux off the upper main legde [aforementioned] leads to easier jams and smears near the anchor." (PRC)

Location

Hammer and Sickle you commie bastards

Protection

to 3" or hike around for TR

Photos

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Pro to 2" will sew this up. It's pretty straightforward, unlike the "rather difficult" comment in the guidebook. If you know how to handjam then you should be fine. Jun 15, 2012
berl
Seattle
berl   Seattle
I find the little slab above the handcrack to be the most thought-provoking... the thought usually being something like "get some gear in now because otherwise you're looking at a fall or swing onto the ledge at the base of the handcrack." Jun 15, 2012
das1405
Portland
 
das1405   Portland
 
This climb is quite a bit harder if you take a variation to the right for the first half of the climb. Start to the right of the tree (about 3-4 feet to the right of the route shown in the Beta photo) and climb up into the chimney. I don't think this variation has a name but the book lists it as a .10-.
NOTE:I did this on TR - it didn't seem like it would take pro very well - maybe some small nuts. Mar 21, 2016
Zachary Radke
Gresham, OR
  5.9
Zachary Radke   Gresham, OR
  5.9
Did the “chimney start” off to the right, portland rock book calls route 5.10-. Takes small nuts in a few spots and a bomber .5 friend at the start. Nut placements weren’t ideal, and placed from a strenuous position. Wouldn’t want to fall on them, but very low down so a fall may just result in an injured ankle. Chimney start variation goes around 5.10- pg imo Aug 5, 2018