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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Off the Grid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led prior to the bolts) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 3,446 total · 31/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is one of the nicer lines at this crag. It ascends a slab to an overlap in the center of the northwest aspect of this crag.

The start is kind of weird. There is a bolt clippable from the ground on the right, ignore it. Ascend the right side of this nook past a bolt. Moving up you could clip a bolt on this block on the right, but I wouldn't. Step up onto a nice slab past 3 more bolts to an overlap. Choice time. You could force a double undercling, get your feet up move over the overlap or you can move slightly right and more gracefully surmount the overlap. Continue up to the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left, 70', or go up higher to yet another 2 bolt anchor, ~85-90'. The higher set of anchors will add rope drag.

Others have provided a name, Thunderhead. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

Go up the obvious slab to the overlap on the northwest aspect of this face. It is just left of the "ear route" which starts on less-appealing terrain with rock scars.

Protection

8-9 bolts.

Photos

goingUp
over here
  5.10b
goingUp   over here
  5.10b
At the overhang, you can either go straight up the bolt line to thin hands/slopy side pulls (my book calls this 11...) or use the crack 2 feet to the right, (with the bolts just at your left hip) 10b,
one of the more interesting climbs at the crag, & well-protected. Jun 11, 2013
Joncharlesdavis
  5.10b
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.10b
Sweet climb. I went right at the roof pumpy after the roof. May 24, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10
Really enjoyed this one. Thoughtful climbing above and below the crux, but none of it is too hard. The crux is sequency and thoughtful but really excellent once you work it out. Very well-protected. Aug 4, 2015
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
Weston Hamilton   Denver, CO
Awesome. I’m not great at guessing grades, but the move straight up and over the roof involving a weird, sloping sidepull with ok feet was a strong move. Probabaly not an 11 but tough. Follow the bolt line if you want it. The crack system to the right does look easier, but don’t cheat yourself. Go straight up. 10 something. Love this crag. Aug 10, 2018

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