Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 3,212 total · 27/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009 with improvements by L Kap
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is a good route - one of the better ones at this cliff. Start about 20 right of the obvious difficult slab climbing of Full Respect where there is a small overhang about 10 feet off the ground. This one climbs through the left side of the overhang.

Stem up, make a difficult first clip, then use a left sidepull that is not nearly as good as you hope to pull over the little roof.

After about 3 more bolts, another crux is surpassed with good pro. You get slopey feet and hands for two moves, then it's easy all the way to the top.

This was supposedly climbed solo by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

It was cleaned (again?) of fairly large chunks of rock by Alan Light before 2001 and led easily on gear. Someone deleted the original submission on this website for unknown reasons. Alan thought it was a first ascent and named it Whodathunkit. Subsequently, it was retrobolted in 2009. One of the energized bolters was willing to go and look at the crag to try to figure out which retrobolts could be removed to respect that this line could be easily climbed by a competent leader on gear. However, once they found Ed Ash and his solo ascent assertions from 1980s, all willingness to meet evaporated.

Protection

12 bolts, good slab footwork.

Photos