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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,942 total · 19/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is currently the 6th bolted line from the left on this buttress and starts with beige hangers. It joins Firestarter at about 1/2 height.

This starts just to the right of Firestarter below a hanging arete. The crux is in the first 10 feet as you try to get secure on smeary feet and get into a layback on the hanging arete. There is a stray bolt up and right of the 2nd bolt which may be another variation starting from the next route to the left. Ignore that bolt for this variation. Move up past 4 more bolts and traverse left into Firestarter. Continue up to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Make sure to clean off your shoes before you start this route.

This may have been climbed by Ed Ash in the 1980s.

Location

This is currently the 6th bolted start from the left on this little buttress. It can be identified by beige hangers and is just left of the tree near the middle of the wall.

Protection

11-12 bolts.

Photos

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Aaron Sefton
  5.10a
Aaron Sefton  
  5.10a
The guidebook calls this a 5.9+ and calls Firestarter (just to the left) a 5.10b which is opposite of what is posted here on Mountain Project. In any case, the traverse left about 15 feet up and the traverse left again under the 2nd roof to join Firestarter are definitely the cruxes, maybe harder than 5.9+ if you are shorter like me. I used 3 60mm alpine draws, 1 to protect the 1st traverse using the random bolt above, and 2 to extend around the 2nd roof to reduce rope drag. In fact, once I got over the 2nd roof and clipped the next bolt above it, I removed the draw that's just to the left of the 2nd roof. This helped quite a bit with reducing rope drag. Above the 2nd roof, the route mellows out.

In any case, this is kind of a funky route, but it is still enjoyable. Aug 27, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof. Aug 9, 2016
John Alcorn
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
John Alcorn   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Great route! The crux is definitely the first 15 feet. Layback until it gets too sloped, and then look for crimps/jug up above. Another cruxy section about halfway up the route, but after that it's 5.6/5.7. Definitely worth a go. Aug 31, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Be sure to add some slings or use long draws for the traverse out left. Aug 16, 2014

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