Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Leo Paik, Eric Chrisman
Page Views: 2,883 total · 13/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This was originally done as a traditionally protected climb without any bolts for years, if not decades.

You start where the climber's eye says there may be a natural line connecting cracks. The original protection was small cams (Aliens). You aim for the corner/crack above.

Sadly, this was retrobolted in 2009 with 4 bolts. Some traverse right to join Lightning Strike at its sixth bolt. Now ~10 bolts are easily clippable from the first 60 feet of this line. Sadly, there are 3 bolts before where you would get your first piece of protection. This was an established trad line called The Crack Where Sun Don't Shine.  It is now more commonly done as the sport route Rain Check.

Protection

Pro to #4 Camalot, lightly protected. Now, it's overly retrobolted.

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