Elevation: 6,800 ft
GPS: 40.0025, -105.3974
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 124,356 total · 507/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated Details

Description

There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral that had been climbed off and on for years. Around 2009, some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag.

Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here.

A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter.

In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.

L->R: (in progress)

A. Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.

B. Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.

C. Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.

D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.

E. Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.

F. Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led prior to the bolts), 10, 1p, 90', bolts. Retrobolted.

GH. Firestarter, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.

H. Fire and Rain, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.

I. Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.

J1. Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.

J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.

K. Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.

L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.

M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.

including Good Slab Fun, 8, 1p, 100', bolts.

N. Friends, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?

Northwest aspect

O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.

O2. Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

P1. Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.

P2. Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.

P3. Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.

Q. Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.

R. Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

SR. Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.

T. Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.

U. Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.

V. Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.

There are 3 more crags above this crag....

Getting There

Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.

The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.

26 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 112
Friends
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 189
Reunion
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 210
Rain Check
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 109
Summer Nights
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 197
Loyalty
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Spooked
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 81
Respect
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 88
Erika
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 102
Smallville
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Fire and Rain
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 159
Thunderhead
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 170
Quick Silver
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 116
Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led pr…
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 137
Lightning Strike
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 70
Full Respect
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Friends
 112
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Reunion
 189
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rain Check
 210
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Summer Nights
 109
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Loyalty
 197
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Spooked
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Respect
 81
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Erika
 88
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smallville
 102
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fire and Rain
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thunderhead
 159
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Quick Silver
 170
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, l…
 116
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lightning Strike
 137
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Full Respect
 70
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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