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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 6,800 ft
GPS: 40.003, -105.397 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 55,080 total, 308/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral that had been climbed off and on for years. Around 2009, some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag.

Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here.

A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter.

In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.

L->R: (in progress)

A. Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
B. Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
C. Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
E. Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Rain Delay, 10, 1p, 90', bolts. Retrobolted.
GH. Firestarter, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Fire and Rain, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
I. Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J1. Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.
K. Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.
M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.
N. Friends, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?

Northwest aspect

O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
O2. Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
P1. Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
P2. Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.
P3. Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.
R. Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
SR. Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
T. Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
U. Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.
V. Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.

There are 3 more crags above this crag....
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.

The crag is reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friends
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reunion
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Check
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Loyalty
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Firestarter
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spooked
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Respect
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Erika
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderhead
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quick Silver
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Delay
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lightning Strike
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Full Respect
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Friends 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Reunion 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rain Check 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Loyalty 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Firestarter 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Spooked 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Respect 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Erika 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fire and Rain 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thunderhead 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Quick Silver 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rain Delay 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lightning Strike 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Full Respect 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Arthur Nisnevich
Boulder, CO
Arthur Nisnevich   Boulder, CO
Found gear 9/20/17, message me and identify it, and I'd be happy to return it to you in Boulder. Sep 24, 2017
T G
Colorado
T G   Colorado
The tyrolean line was replaced on 8/1/17. Aug 2, 2017
Hey folks! Public safety announcement:

One of the two ropes making up the tyrolean was observed to be pretty severely damaged (as of 07.30.17).

A foot long section of sheath has been completely stripped....

I have a few old ropes on hand if anyone would like to run up there and fix it up with me.

Until it is made safe, please be sure to clip both lines when crossing the river.

Happy climbing!

Jackie Jul 30, 2017
I was here last Monday, June 26th and two high-school-aged-looking-guys left their guidebook. If this is you, message me. Jul 2, 2017
Does anyone know about any massive rock fall that took place here on Sunday, May 21, 2017? A number of other climbers and I at the upper and lower Bihedral areas were alerted by a bloodcurling "ROCK!" scream (which sounded more like someone falling from the rock) and witnessed what must have been school-bus-sized (or larger) chunks of rockfall from the top of the buttress. Hopefully no one was injured! If this is the right crag, then climbers should take note that some routes and the area may be significantly altered. May 21, 2017
DavidS  
Lost a 70m blue bi-pattern rope at Cascade Crag on Friday, November 11th, message me if any one found it. $50 reward if found. Nov 12, 2016
Jon Banks
Denver, CO
Jon Banks   Denver, CO
There are way too many bolts at this crag. Routes are crowded and run into each other, and there are a gazillion variations on every route, which makes for a confusing day climbing. It's in the shade though, so that's really nice. Sep 21, 2015
Big thanks to the folks who put up the Mussy hooks at this crag! Jun 25, 2015
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
Does anyone know of a decent guide book or other resouce for this crag? D'Antonio's book shows a vague photo (but good descriptions), and the MP site is uncharacteristically lacking in good beta photos.
There are bolts all over the place on this crag, & I find it difficult to sort out the routes.... Sep 4, 2014
goingUp
over here
goingUp   over here
Although the tree stand is still "broken", the climb down is simple: there is a rope there and still two good 'step limbs'. We hauled a dog over there today and easily passed/lowered her. Decent climbs, good texture on the rock, most cruxes seem to have "tricky" feet. Jun 11, 2013
Jason Watts
Boulder,CO
Jason Watts   Boulder,CO
The broken Tyrolean "treestand" is laying on the ground now, which makes the landing consist of 2 limbs (one broken) and 2 ropes. While it isn't a big deal going into the crag, the return trip might be a little sketchy for a non-climber type. Something to keep in mind if you plan on going to this nice "beginner" crag.

I would be willing to help someone figure out a way to get a platform back out there as this traverse serves a couple great crags. May 11, 2013
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
Pretty decent crag with fun climbs. Deserves a better page than this. Drop all the "unknown" stuff. Maybe MP needs to get off its high horse. Sep 6, 2012
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Nice crag; good rock; fun and shady. Better than I expected after the negative vibes and retrobolting complaints in the description. Ok, some of the lines are close together and initially hard to read which route is which. And there are a few stray bolts that don't make much sense. But the "retrobolting" I saw was largely protecting face climbing that otherwise would be unprotected runout in the trad routes. Sep 3, 2012
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
FYI, the tree stand for the tyrolean is broken (7/12/12). Also, there is a death block to the right of Reunion that is quite loose. Jul 12, 2012
pat thompson
superior
pat thompson   superior
Amen Ed- I have been to this crag 3 times this year and had a blast each time. It is nice to have another summer crag like this one that is easy to get to and has many moderates for my son and his friends!!!
Thanks to whomever the so called "energized bolters" are as I know that you put in a ton of hard work on this once was mossy and chossy pile o'doody. Cheers-Pat and Family Oct 15, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
I was there today. The creator was there; he gave us the 2 minute tour. Most of the climbs were 50 to 80 feet long. It was shady and busy. I found it a bit confusing since climbs are close, but nothing is desperate, so it didn't make much difference. Every route I did had some good moves and I had a lot of fun. (Everyone there was having fun.) Maybe we should get the names listed, so it's less confusing? The longest route there was a right-trending trad route starting just rt of the 3rd bolted line from the left, in a rt-facing dihedral. Jul 11, 2010
I've used this pullout to park for the "Inca Stone" in the past. Apr 16, 2003

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