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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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Californication T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Firestarter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Respect S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Good Slab Fun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hustle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Off the Grid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led prior to the bolts) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Side Dish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Summer Nights S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weeds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Elevation: | 6,800 ft | 2,073 m |
| GPS: |
40.0025, -105.3974 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 127,696 total · 462/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2003 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25.
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
There are a few rock buttresses nearly directly across the stream from the Bihedral that had been climbed off and on for years. Around 2009, some folks have decided to rename this to Cascade Crag.
Lying in the shade and North-facing, these buttresses provide temperature relief in the midst of a steamy summer in the canyon. It can be 20 degrees cooler here.
A brief hop across the stream (or a tyrolean crossing downstream) and a short wander up a short slope lead you to a couple buttresses flanking a small drainage that can contain some WI2- ice in the winter.
In 2009, a scouring of the face of most of the lichen and bushes and the addition of bolts has completely changed the appearance of this crag. Now, at least 21 additional bolt lines or variations have been packed in here. It can be VERY confusing as to what bolts belong to which lines at times due to the close proximity of these bolts. Also, retrobolting has altered some of the original lines. This is no longer a quiet crag, and top ropes can cover this small crag on busy weekends.
L->R: (in progress)
A. Side Dish, 9, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
B. Hustle, 10, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
C. Loyalty, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
D. Ed's Corner aka Respect, 10-, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
E. Full Respect, 11-?, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Rain Delay (Whodathunkit, led prior to the bolts), 10, 1p, 90', bolts. Retrobolted.
GH. Firestarter, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Fire and Rain, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
I. Spooked, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J1. Rain Check, 9-, 1p, 90', bolts.
J2. Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, 9- R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted with J1.
K. Lightning Strike, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
L. Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun, 9 R, 1p, 140', gear. Unfortunately retrobolted.
M variations, 7-9, 1p, 85-105', bolts & gear.
including Good Slab Fun, 8, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Friends, 8, 2p, 100', bolts & gear. 2 finishes?
Northwest aspect
O1. Friends, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
O2. Reunion, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
P1. Summer Nights, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.
P2. Quick Silver, 10+, 1p, 1p, 70', bolts.
P3. Erika, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q. Thunderhead, 10, 1p, 70' or 85', bolts.
R. Smallville, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
SR. Californication, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
T. Weeds, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
U. Nurse Jackie, 5, 1p, 45' or 65', bolts.
V. Dexter, 3, 1p, 45' or 65', bolt(s) & gear.
There are 3 more crags above this crag....
Getting There
Approximately 7 miles up canyon from the Elephant Buttresses lies a pulloff on the S side of the road with a large sized tree. This pulloff is also used for the Bihedral and sometimes for the Truth or Consequences crags. It is easily spied from the Bihedral/Riviera. It lies somewhat blocked from view by trees near its base.
The crag can be reached by fording the stream and angling SE for a few minutes when the water is not raging. It appears that some beaver-like folks have created a rock crossing.
Per J D: there is no cell phone service in this area. If you use electronic maps, consider downloading offline GPS maps to your phone before arriving. The GPS directions will take you to a small gravel pulloff, there’s parking for 7-8 cars if they park perpendicular to the road.
If you do not wade, there is a tyrolean traverse that has two ropes attached to a large rock on the side by the road. It is attached to a tree on the other side. There’s a branch on the tree that you can use to get your footing, and there is a narrow ladder hanging from the tree to get to the ground.
After you cross the tyrolean traverse, make a right (head west) and stay on the path next to the river, until you see the crag on your left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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