Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,679 total · 14/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


119 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is the center variation of three options that starts in the nook on this northwest aspect of this crag. It has a brief crux with the bulk of the difficulties in its second half.

Start up in a nook past 2 bolts. Continue up a slab with a footsy crux (a bit squeezed here, since you can reach left a touch bolts on the left variation - which would give a lower grade). You could strain a bit harder and eliminate a good hold on the left to challenge yourself. You can also easily veer left and make the route go at 5.10. Go up to an overlap, choose the left of 2 options here (going right is the route Erika). Find a second crux (10) and fire for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left.

Some have called this 5.10.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is the center variation of three options up a slab that starts in the nook on this northwest aspect of this crag.

Protection

9-10 bolts.

Photos

Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
Really liked this route, but didn't think it was that hard. Hopefully it just means I'm getting better. Sep 9, 2012
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Fun line. Pic has the climber in the crux. 5.10b/c seemed about right, as shorter climbers have to suss out slightly harder sequence. Being 6' felt like an advantage. Jun 24, 2013
ConnerM555
Denver
ConnerM555   Denver
I also didn't think this route felt that hard, but maybe it is a sign of improvement. ^^^^^^ May 7, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
 
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
 
Fun. If you don't bail left at the 5th bolt, this will definitely feel 10+ (maybe 11-). I'd call it 10c if you go left. It's bolted very well and is fun regardless. Aug 16, 2014
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
Another fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Spooked and Erika above the overhang. Aug 30, 2017
Raymon Bonner
Boulder
  5.10a
Raymon Bonner   Boulder
  5.10a
I'm only 5'8", and this still felt like a 10a to me. In my opinion, this one was significantly easier than pulling the roof on Thunderhead which is marked 10a. I'd encourage people to get on it if their pushing into mid 10s. Aug 1, 2018
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
Weston Hamilton   Denver, CO
Great climb, nice and tall. Thought the roof was pretty solid and would call this 10b-10c depending on how you climb over the roof, similar to Thunderhead in difficulty. Easier than Smallville and better I think too. Aug 13, 2018