Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,080 total, 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


89 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the center variation of three options that starts in the nook on this northwest aspect of this crag. It has a brief crux with the bulk of the difficulties in its second half.

Start up in a nook past 2 bolts. Continue up a slab with a footsy crux (a bit squeezed here, since you can reach left a touch bolts on the left variation - which would give a lower grade). You could strain a bit harder and eliminate a good hold on the left to challenge yourself. You can also easily veer left and make the route go at 5.10. Go up to an overlap, choose the left of 2 options here (going right is the route Erika). Find a second crux (10) and fire for the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left.

Some have called this 5.10.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is the center variation of three options up a slab that starts in the nook on this northwest aspect of this crag.

Protection

9-10 bolts.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Another fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Spooked and Erika above the overhang. Aug 30, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield
 
A. Bandos   Broomfield
 
Fun. If you don't bail left at the 5th bolt, this will definitely feel 10+ (maybe 11-). I'd call it 10c if you go left. It's bolted very well and is fun regardless. Aug 16, 2014
ConnerM555
Denver
ConnerM555   Denver
I also didn't think this route felt that hard, but maybe it is a sign of improvement. ^^^^^^ May 7, 2014
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Fun line. Pic has the climber in the crux. 5.10b/c seemed about right, as shorter climbers have to suss out slightly harder sequence. Being 6' felt like an advantage. Jun 24, 2013
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
  5.10a
Really liked this route, but didn't think it was that hard. Hopefully it just means I'm getting better. Sep 9, 2012