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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash, bolted by Bruno Hache, 2009
Page Views: 902 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the left fork variation of currently the 4th bolted line from the left on this buttress. Use your good slab shoes.

The crux is shared on the bottom slab with the right variation. Ascend a slab with small holds and a key left gaston with tenuous feet after the 3rd clip. Move up to a hanging slab at the 6th bolt. Move left with funky feet. There is one more longer reach and then easy terrain to the top with a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note, those with lesser slab footwork may find the crux stiff for 11-, rated by a good slab climber (not me). Some have called this 11+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Note, I climbed it, and I don't really climb 5.12 anything.

Per Bruno Hache: this climbs the first 5 bolts up a slab. Get 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack, and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

There is a variation called Fully Respectful, 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect, get one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-Mussy hook top anchor.

Location

This is the left variation of currently the fourth bolted line from the left.

Protection

14 bolts, good slab footwork.

Photos

Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Update on where this route goes.
Climb the first 5 bolts up a slab. 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

Variation called Fully Respectful, also 5.12-.
Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect (5.12-), one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-mussy hook top anchor.

Hopefully I confused everybody by now....
(See Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion.) Apr 10, 2017
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
I'm gonna go with El Hache here on this one. Calling this 11 ANYTHING is a bogus move. Hell, there's more feet at a glove factory. SOLID, spanking 12 territory. Maybe I just need to learn the moves? Or maybe I need to lose a hundred pounds.

Or maybe the assclowns calling this 11- need to have their heads checked.... Aug 27, 2016
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
When I FAed this route in 2009, moves wired, it felt 5.11d.
About 4 years later, in Alzheimer onsight mode, it felt 5.12a.
Since then, multiple climbers said 5.11d or 5.12a.
Saying this route is 5.11- is complete bullshit. Jul 1, 2016
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
5.11d
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
5.11d
With fat fingers, it makes using a couple of the slots next to impossible. This would feel a couple grades easier with thinner tips. Jun 3, 2014
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
5.11d
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
5.11d
My partner and I both felt this is absolutely 11+, don't be fooled by the slab wizards telling you otherwise! Aug 25, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Being a Morrison local, the slab felt all of .11+ to me!!! I suppose there are others who consider this easy .11...Chairman of the Board felt easier, as did the Clipboard...my 2-cents Jun 19, 2013