Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash, bolted by Bruno Hache, 2009
Page Views: 1,292 total · 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is the left fork variation of currently the 4th bolted line from the left on this buttress. Use your good slab shoes.

The crux is shared on the bottom slab with the right variation. Ascend a slab with small holds and a key left gaston with tenuous feet after the 3rd clip. Move up to a hanging slab at the 6th bolt. Move left with funky feet. There is one more longer reach and then easy terrain to the top with a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note, those with lesser slab footwork may find the crux stiff for 11-, rated by a good slab climber (not me). Some have called this 11+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Note, I climbed it, and I don't really climb 5.12 anything.

Per Bruno Hache: this climbs the first 5 bolts up a slab. Get 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack, and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

There is a variation called Fully Respectful, 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect, get one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-Mussy hook top anchor.

Location

This is the left variation of currently the fourth bolted line from the left.

Protection

14 bolts, good slab footwork.

Photos