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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 451 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is currently the 2nd from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress. It starts on what appears to be a smoothish slab.

Hop onto the slab (best part). Find a nice left foot edge and reach for the diagonally thin crack (crux). Scamper up to a ledge, you can protect with a #1 or #2 Camalot, then a yellow or possibly red Alien. Angle up and right to 2 bolt anchors with Mussy hooks. With the bolts so close, you could probably traverse further right to select between this route and the next 2 route's anchors. Note, the two key slab holds feel like they will round down and become less positive with traffic. Addendum: some folks say this is 11- now.

It's probably between 1-2 stars. The route to the right is better.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Hustle. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is currently the second from the left of the bolted climbs on this little buttress.

Protection

7 bolts + a few cams from yellow Alien/TCU to #1 or 2 Camalot.

Photos

JFM
  5.10b
JFM  
  5.10b
Strangely bolted - no bolts through 15 feet at the crux-bulge (though it will take a #0.4 and a 0.5 Camalot) and yet two bolts on the 12-foot 5.2 run to the anchors? Jul 10, 2016
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start. Jun 23, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This route is probably 10+. The holds are pretty small and the feet are tiny, rounded slopers. Slabmasters will like the crux. The rounout is on pretty easy ground relative to the rest of the route. Maybe 5.6 or so? Jul 22, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10+
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10+
I did this today. The description is good [2nd bolt line from the left; right up the middle of the slab]. I'm pretty fair on slabs and it struck me as 10d/11a. (I'm 5'8", but it was the only fall I took all day.) Maybe Leo was right about some key holds rounding off [or disappearing altogether?]. I skipped the cams, but easily saw where the would go on the left (after the slab) before moving right to the bolt above an overlap/roof. (BTW, this gave my buddy the opportunity to approach that bolt directly, just at the wide point of the overlap.) Jul 11, 2010