Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 618 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is currently the 2nd from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress. It starts on what appears to be a smoothish slab.

Hop onto the slab (best part). Find a nice left foot edge and reach for the diagonally thin crack (crux). Scamper up to a ledge, you can protect with a #1 or #2 Camalot, then a yellow or possibly red Alien. Angle up and right to 2 bolt anchors with Mussy hooks. With the bolts so close, you could probably traverse further right to select between this route and the next 2 route's anchors. Note, the two key slab holds feel like they will round down and become less positive with traffic. Addendum: some folks say this is 11- now.

It's probably between 1-2 stars. The route to the right is better.

This had been given a name within the database, but someone has deleted it. Now others have provided the name, Hustle. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is currently the second from the left of the bolted climbs on this little buttress.

Protection

7 bolts + a few cams from yellow Alien/TCU to #1 or 2 Camalot.

Photos

rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10+
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10+
I did this today. The description is good [2nd bolt line from the left; right up the middle of the slab]. I'm pretty fair on slabs and it struck me as 10d/11a. (I'm 5'8", but it was the only fall I took all day.) Maybe Leo was right about some key holds rounding off [or disappearing altogether?]. I skipped the cams, but easily saw where the would go on the left (after the slab) before moving right to the bolt above an overlap/roof. (BTW, this gave my buddy the opportunity to approach that bolt directly, just at the wide point of the overlap.) Jul 11, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This route is probably 10+. The holds are pretty small and the feet are tiny, rounded slopers. Slabmasters will like the crux. The rounout is on pretty easy ground relative to the rest of the route. Maybe 5.6 or so? Jul 22, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start. Jun 23, 2011
JFM
  5.10b
JFM  
  5.10b
Strangely bolted - no bolts through 15 feet at the crux-bulge (though it will take a #0.4 and a 0.5 Camalot) and yet two bolts on the 12-foot 5.2 run to the anchors? Jul 10, 2016