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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Off the Grid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Ash?, energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 3,950 total · 37/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is probably the most pleasant of the bolted routes on this crag. This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left of the bolted routes on this buttress.

Find this start with 3 bolts on the right edge of a big flake. Move right, pop over a little overlap, enjoy pleasant moves to the top. Note, you may clip the bolt from the route to the left or to the right for the 7th clip.

Caveat Emptor: one fellow apparently fell, flipping, and breaking an ankle on this route, so pay attention. Bring small cams if this is near your limit. Some now rate this 9+.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left on this little buttress.

Protection

8-10 bolts and possibly gear.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear. Jul 22, 2010
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
Evergreen, CO
  5.9-
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee   Evergreen, CO
  5.9-
I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely. Mar 7, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely. Jul 11, 2013
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9-
There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went. Jun 17, 2014
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.9
Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there. May 24, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.8
Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing.

Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant. Aug 4, 2015
Josh Q
  5.8
Josh Q  
  5.8
Really enjoyed this route. Tons of fun the whole way up. We avoided the runout by placing 3 pieces of gear. It's my opinion that following the route with gear makes for a funner climb as you could run it out in a straight line and miss the fun roof. Would say this one was second favorite at this area. Not difficult at all for the grade. Sep 25, 2016
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
This route had some water on it today (early May), which made the crux more interesting. Under that roof though, DON'T move right to try to get the clip. It's really tough to move back left, and there aren't any good holds on the right, even though there appear to be some. Just go straight up with those underclings. May 12, 2017
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
This route felt harder than the .10a to the right and harder than the route to the left to my partner and me. Sep 13, 2017
Listed in the new edition Boulder Canyon book as 9+. 9- is more solid, but this climb is very fun, and you really only need one or two cams, 0.3 and 05 BDs give or take depending. Run it out up top. 5 days ago

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