Type: Trad, TR, 180 ft
FA: Ed Ash? Kyle Copeland?
Page Views: 2,129 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Find a short, left-facing dihedral of easy difficulty. Head up. Climb a short right-facing dihedral. From here there are 2 options, straight over a little roof 5.10 R or traverse right 8 feet and back left above. Then angle up and right. You could join Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check) finish or angle right across slabs (crux) with marginal protection until you are under a small overlap/roof. Traverse right and up and finally you are there. Hmmm. Not sure it's worth a star, but it was lead ground-up and made for a nice little adventure.

Rap 180 feet from the tree or 3rd Class+ down the right side of the buttress.

In 2009, this line was effectively retrobolted with probably 4-5 lines crossing it and scattering a bunch of bolts that effectively make it no longer R rated and removed the adventure from this climb.

Addendum: in late 10/09, we were informed that this line had been climbed ground up at least back in 1997 and was not named at that time. Ed Ash has also indicated he climbed all over this rock in the 1980s. So, this line has been climbed by multiple parties safely without bolts and the bolts diminish the adventure of the line.

Also, recall that this line had been climbed by multiple parties before bolts ever appeared on this cliff. This climb goes to the top of the cliff.

Protection

Aliens, wires, Friends to #2 1/2, 60m rope.

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
Finger crack variation is pretty fun! Bomber jams but not so much for feet, so a little tricky. Finger-sized gear there and a 0.5 and 0.75 higher up will sew it up. Or just clip the bolts anywhere from 2' to 4" away from the perfect crack.... Jul 11, 2013
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
 
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
 
I followed on Good Crack Fun (the crack variation). I'm a little weaker on crack, but this one was pretty friendly with a couple of decent jams. Worth a look if you're just getting into crack climbing. Jul 14, 2013
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
I saw 5 variations of this climb in the new guidebook, and it made my head spin.... Go straight up the bolt line for a 5.9, and go right at any point for a 5.7. Sep 13, 2017