Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 2,268 total · 20/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a route that starts on funky terrain but ascends a brief, interesting, crux past an "ear" of sorts. If you stretch, it's sort of reminiscent of a mini-"ear" pitch on Primrose.

This has a weird start with a bolt before you start, bolt on a block, then you move right on funky, crumbly terrain with rock scars. Go up to a black (rappable) hanger below an overlap. There are two choices: try the funky hand jam / gaston under the ear (brutish and scrunched) or the more improbable looking palm smearing of the outside of the ear. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Oddly, there are 2 bolts with no hangers just left of the anchor.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


This is on the right side of the northwest aspect of this crag ascending an "ear"-like feature.


7-8 bolts.


rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge. Jul 11, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way. Jul 22, 2010
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside. Aug 18, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit. Aug 9, 2016
crackatoa Spiesbach
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
Awkward and grunty for me... not terribly hard but definitely not a give away for the grade. It's a nice change compared to the techy slabs that the rest of the cliff offers. Jun 12, 2017
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
I thought the hand jams were good enough near the ear, but facing right and chimneying seemed easier to reach the jugs. Sep 1, 2017