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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 2,035 total, 20/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a route that starts on funky terrain but ascends a brief, interesting, crux past an "ear" of sorts. If you stretch, it's sort of reminiscent of a mini-"ear" pitch on Primrose.

This has a weird start with a bolt before you start, bolt on a block, then you move right on funky, crumbly terrain with rock scars. Go up to a black (rappable) hanger below an overlap. There are two choices: try the funky hand jam / gaston under the ear (brutish and scrunched) or the more improbable looking palm smearing of the outside of the ear. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Oddly, there are 2 bolts with no hangers just left of the anchor.

This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

This is on the right side of the northwest aspect of this crag ascending an "ear"-like feature.

Protection

7-8 bolts.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
I thought the hand jams were good enough near the ear, but facing right and chimneying seemed easier to reach the jugs. Sep 1, 2017
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
  5.10b
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
  5.10b
Awkward and grunty for me... not terribly hard but definitely not a give away for the grade. It's a nice change compared to the techy slabs that the rest of the cliff offers. Jun 12, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit. Aug 9, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10+
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.10+
The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside. Aug 18, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way. Jul 22, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10a
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10a
I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge. Jul 11, 2010