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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: energized bolter(s)
Page Views: 955 total, 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the route with the small roof that makes it easy to identify. Fire and Rain also starts here but traverses hard left right away.

Ascend featured terrain past a loose downward pointing tooth (beware) past 5 bolts straight up to the small roof. Note, there is another stray bolt going right below the roof that may be used to connect with Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) or Rain Check. Lieback or jam (painful) with your right hand and get up to a fingerlock / hole and get your feet up. Continue up on easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Some might argue that this is 10a. It may warrant a 9+/10-, but that isn't an option.

Location

This is the bolted route straight up from the tree near the middle of the wall - just left of Crack Where The Sun Don't Shine that goes over a small roof.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Felt about the same difficulty as Quicksilver and Erika to me. 5.10- sounds about right. Lots of bat poop below the roof, watch the feet. Aug 30, 2017
Josh Q
  5.10a
Josh Q  
  5.10a
Agreed with the previous comments here. Pretty good romp up to the roof. Find some good holds and high feet, and pulling over the roof is no big deal even for a short guy (5'6). Very fun climb worth doing if in the area. Sep 25, 2016
Jenn Krogue
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Jenn Krogue   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Reachy roof, but trust it, the holds are good! Jul 21, 2015
Sunny Yum
Boulder, CO
Sunny Yum   Boulder, CO
According to Bob D'Antonio's 2nd ed guidebook, this route is "Spooked" (5.10). I'm throwing up a beta photo that shows the full route. Jul 12, 2013
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
 
I thought this was the line called Spooked? When I climbed it, I was wondering if the poop had something to do with the name. Could the route currently labeled as Spooked be wrong? Or am I wrong? May 23, 2012
pat thompson
superior
pat thompson   superior
Visited the crag for the first time today with the family. Easy approach, cool temperatures, and very amply bolted routes. Yee ha, lots 0' fun. This route definitely climbed in the easy 10 range and pulling the roof was a blast. Oh yeah, the wood rat shit made the roof moves more fun, too!!! May 8, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
The roof felt 10a but may be harder for short folks. Jul 22, 2010