Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 3,273 total · 29/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral. This goes up the left start with the 3 bolts.

Start onto a micro rib with a crux at the beginning. After the 3rd bolt, move into the dihedral with traditional pro and finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You could continue this past another bolt to a 75' anchor with Mussy hooks.

Others have provided a name, Californication. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

On the far right end of this crag is a pair of bolted starts to a short, right-facing dihedral. This goes up the left, 3 bolt start.

Protection

3 bolts, a few cams in the #2-3 Camalot range, and an additional bolt if you continue up.

Photos

JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
Evergreen, CO
  5.7
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee   Evergreen, CO
  5.7
I placed a 0.5 and 3 C4 in the crack. You definitely want something in the 2-3 range. May 19, 2013
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.7
One of my favorites at this crag. May 24, 2015
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
This variation was slightly funner than the route to the right. The upper crack takes BD 1-3. Sep 1, 2017