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Routes in Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag

Californication S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Dexter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erika S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firestarter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Friends S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Respect S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hustle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lightning Strike S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loyalty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurse Jackie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quick Silver S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rain Check S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Respect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Side Dish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smallville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spooked S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Nights S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunderhead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weeds S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: energized bolter(s)
Page Views: 2,964 total · 29/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a long line that starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree. Can be done in two pitches, but a 60m rope works fine.

Start up a short slab with your right fingers in a good crack past 3 closely spaced bolts. Note, the 3rd bolt can pin the rope a bit as you climb above. Ascend the short, right-facing dihedral, (optional cam) or force the line a couple feet right on face holds. Surmount the bulge, move up to the 2 bolt anchor. You can belay or continue up past 5 more bolts on easy, blocky terrain along an arete of sorts to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note on P2, there is a weird variation that can go right from the 2nd bolt, clipping an additional 3 more bolts in 10 feet and popping over a roof to clip another bolt or two, 5.8. It will add rope drag and may not be worth it. Bring more QDs with longer slings if you do this variation.

The first 15 feet warrant a star, but the upper bit may detract from this star.

Location

This starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree just right of the start for Lichenthorpe.

Protection

11 bolts & small cam (perhaps a red Alien or #0.5 Camalot) if done in 1 pitch.

Photos

Brandon Heimbichner
Broomfield, CO
 
Brandon Heimbichner   Broomfield, CO
 
The right bolt at the anchor could use a tighten. It's still sturdy, but you are currently able to spin it a couple millimeters. Jun 7, 2017
Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
  5.8
You could place a big nut (#11) after the 3rd bolt (I think) in a crack on the left with an extension to sew this up if it makes you nervous. I didn't feel it was entirely necessary, but it's there if you want it.

Also, with a 70m rope I did this in one pitch with plenty of rope to spare. May 12, 2017
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.8
I used a #2 c4 after 3rd bolt. May 24, 2015