Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ed Ash?, bolted by Ron Olsen, Bob D'Antonio, 2009
Page Views: 6,725 total · 37/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


123 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a long line that starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree. Can be done in two pitches, but a 60m rope works fine.

Start up a short slab with your right fingers in a good crack past 3 closely spaced bolts. Note, the 3rd bolt can pin the rope a bit as you climb above. Ascend the short, right-facing dihedral, (optional cam) or force the line a couple feet right on face holds. Surmount the bulge, move up to the 2 bolt anchor. You can belay or continue up past 5 more bolts on easy, blocky terrain along an arete of sorts to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Note on P2, there is a weird variation that can go right from the 2nd bolt, clipping an additional 3 more bolts in 10 feet and popping over a roof to clip another bolt or two, 5.8. It will add rope drag and may not be worth it. Bring more QDs with longer slings if you do this variation.

The first 15 feet warrant a star, but the upper bit may detract from this star.

Location Suggest change

This starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree just right of the start for Lichenthorpe.

Protection Suggest change

11 bolts & small cam (perhaps a red Alien or #0.5 Camalot) if done in 1 pitch.

Photos

loading