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Thunderhead

5.10, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 193 votes
FA: Ed Ash in the '80s, bolted by Ron Olsen, Bob D'Antonio, Bruno Haché, 2009
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Across from The Bihed…
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Description

This is one of the nicer lines at this crag. It ascends a slab to an overlap in the center of the northwest aspect of this crag.

The start is kind of weird. There is a bolt clippable from the ground on the right, ignore it. Ascend the right side of this nook past a bolt. Moving up you could clip a bolt on this block on the right, but I wouldn't. Step up onto a nice slab past 3 more bolts to an overlap. Choice time. You could force a double undercling, get your feet up move over the overlap or you can move slightly right and more gracefully surmount the overlap. Continue up to the 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks on the left, 70', or go up higher to yet another 2 bolt anchor, ~85-90'. The higher set of anchors will add rope drag.

Others have provided a name, Thunderhead. This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

Location

Go up the obvious slab to the overlap on the northwest aspect of this face. It is just left of the "ear route" which starts on less-appealing terrain with rock scars.

Protection

8-9 bolts.

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At the crux....
[Hide Photo] At the crux....

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

goingUp
over here
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] At the overhang, you can either go straight up the bolt line to thin hands/slopy side pulls (my book calls this 11...) or use the crack 2 feet to the right, (with the bolts just at your left hip) 10b,
one of the more interesting climbs at the crag, & well-protected. Jun 11, 2013
Joncharlesdavis
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Sweet climb. I went right at the roof pumpy after the roof. May 24, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this one. Thoughtful climbing above and below the crux, but none of it is too hard. The crux is sequency and thoughtful but really excellent once you work it out. Very well-protected. Aug 4, 2015
Weston Hamilton
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Awesome. I’m not great at guessing grades, but the move straight up and over the roof involving a weird, sloping sidepull with ok feet was a strong move. Probabaly not an 11 but tough. Follow the bolt line if you want it. The crack system to the right does look easier, but don’t cheat yourself. Go straight up. 10 something. Love this crag. Aug 10, 2018
David House
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I've done this route both ways now. The Haas/Weidner guidebook calls this 10b which I think is right if you use the crack out to the right. If you go straight up with a hand on either side of the crux bolt, I would give this a 10d. I think it's similar difficulty to Supernatural at Avalon and harder than Quicksilver to the left. The climbing continues to be challenging for the next two bolts with some balancy laybacking. So, it is a little contrived to go straight up, but that has nice moves and is worth it. Aug 4, 2020
[Hide Comment] Who is the six year old responsible for the comments on the FA? Jul 12, 2021
Shay Subramanian
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Laybacked the right slopey crack to pull over roof, felt about 10b. Good climb with a thoughtful crux - well-bolted! Jul 21, 2024