Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Stover & Paul Stoner
Page Views: 2,604 total · 20/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I wasn't going to post this, but in reality it was pretty good and eventually will probably become a Momument classic. So, here it goes. This is a free variation to the original Gary Ziegler, Bob Doan, and Gary Boucher's 1961 aid line of the true Egypt Rock.

It took some cleaning, but overall it is of great quality for the grade. I would put this Monument adventure right up there with Lizards and Scorpions, Fast Draw, and the Kor Route on Kissing Couple.

Approach this five headed monster from the south. Bring some binoculars so you can eyeball up the route. You are climbing a crack system on the South Face.

P1. From the South, bushwhack up the chinmey separating the tower from the rim till you are at a stance 30 feet below a lone scraggly bramble of some kind. This belay put you directly in the bullseye for anything that comes down, so climb with caution. 30 feet of chossaneering leads to steeper and better rock on the right wall. Finally make a committing move right to gain a big ledge system.
70', 5.8.

P2. Find the line of weekness, and run out the slab 50' horizontally to the right. There is no pro, if you fall here you are going to get hurt for the second or the leader. 50', 5.6.

P3. You are now at the base of a great pitch, & I won't spoil it for you, but follow the line of least resistance up and left of the original aid line passing many ancient relics. Once at the anchor, short rope 20' to the huge platform below the five summit caps.
160'+/-, 5.10.

P4. Take your pick, there are no anchors on any of them. Figure out how to get down w/o making a mess (of the rock or yourself). 15', 5.8.

Rappel from 2 solid stations back to terra firma.

Location

This route is great go do it! When hiking from Independance Momument toward Grandview and Kissing Couple, it's the next group of towers past the Kissing Couple group.

Protection

Singles from purple Metolius to a #4 Camalot. Triples from #0.5 to #3 Camalot. 15 runners total, several double length runners, screamers are nice too. Double 60 meter ropes.

Photos